Dubby Bhagat

Kathmandu:

In an oasis in bustling Battis Puttali is Niti Rana’s, Momo’s & More, now renovated to include artistic flair in an exquisite selection of artwork, and a brilliant book shop, run by Sunita and Lars of United Books. ‘’I got my interest from my parents during holidays, I liked to help them run the Sunkosi - the first restaurant to serve the finest Nepali and Tibetan cuisine, and ‘’durbari’’ style pulao, sekuwa, momos and Sikarni which was featured in Gourmet magazine. When the restaurant was sold, some of the old cooks approached me to start a small restaurant and since I knew how good the momos were I started Momo’s & More eight years ago,’’ said Niti.

The much more in Momo’s & More began with a mushroom soup which was both delicate and strong at the same time. It’s secret lay in a reduced chicken broth flavored with cloves, cardamom and soya sauce. There was a hint of China in the soup. The soya sauce was created in China and Japan in 500 BC and Chinese courtiers were required to chew cloves to sweeten their breath when addressing the emperor, in 250 BC.

Niti Rana’s does more than Momo’s & More; she runs a famous institute, is doing a PhD and does social work,and is the cheerful center of a family. ‘’We have food we enjoy in our home on the menu’’, said Niti, as a succulent salad appeared. It was cucumbers sprinkled with ground peanuts. Derived from a Newari recipe it was exceptional with spring onions lending tanginess. It would have delighted the Emperor Tiberius who grew cucumbers in carts which were moved around to catch the sun in AD 14, so that there would be cucumbers year around.

“All the staff in the restaurant have a say in how we run it. For example the Grilled Chicken with Mushroom Sauce was Chef Dorji Lama’s idea,’’ said Niti Rana. And what a soft and delicate idea it is. A thin, easily cut chicken breast is cooked with mushrooms, pepper and a little wine. It is a contemporary descendent of the Hunter Chicken so popular in Europe. The taste is as laid back as a pleasant thought and as striking as an original, simple creation so often is. And so to Niti’s magnificent, memorable momos…..

Without exception, all the momo’s have the thinnest wraps in Nepal.The Paneer Momo is filled with cottage cheese and deep fried. So you bite past a crisp crust into softness. It has a delicateness about it so eat it with Niti’s coriander chutney which is light and fantastic. The Chilli Momo is coated in a spiced tomato base and is sweet and hot. When word of these spread they will become as universal as the Pizza’s or the Sandwich’s on the menu. The Chicken Momo is as I remembered it-so addictive that I used to eat (I blush) three plates with Niti’s justly famous gunpowder in oil, chutney.

‘’All my momo’s are available with the chutnies in Blue Bird and Bhatbhateni. And since friends and Embassies love them we have a way of making them on the spot when we cater,’’ said Niti.

The Gourmet magazine’s, Sikarni with its yogurt and spices is as it was in the old Sunkosi on Durbar Marg where Niti’s parents served it with a special flourish.

A meal at Momos & More is full of flourishes and varied food and more than momos. Call Ram Hari, the always attentive major domo, at 447197.