Kathmandu:

The Korma, a fine curry, is being served along with kebabs, biryanis, vegetarian Indian food and other chicken meat and fish dishes at Bawarchi in The Bluebird Food Court. The owner of Bawarchi Sanjay Nangia is constantly arguing with his Bawarchis (the old word for cooks) about whether the Chicken Korma should be a white or a red curry. Sanjay is a perfectionist, but then so are his Bengali, Indian and Nepali cooks.

The Chicken Korma (created in an open kitchen) has a deep mellow taste that is compounded by the several flavourings used in it which are then tempered with curds and cream. Bawarchi’s Korma, eaten with the handkerchief thin roomali roti adheres to Madhur Jaffrey’s definition of a Korma: “A dish which is rich and perfect for banquets and parties using a lot of yoghurt as well as expensive spices and flavourings”.

The tastes were all present and were created by a young Nepali Chef Binod Shrestha whose Indian teacher was on holiday.

“The new thing is people wanting to see their food cooked. And food courts are going to be very popular in Kathmandu. I have already had several offers,” said Nangia, who is opening a new Bawarchi opposite the Teaching Hospital in Maharajgunj where you will be able to see your food being prepared.

Calcutta’s famous Kaati Kebabs made the original Bawarchi’s famous. Jaffrey says the pieces of meat are marinated and cooked on an open griddle or tawa, then wrapped in flaky bread that has been dipped in eggs. If you want a typical Calcutta Kaati — ask that no tomato sauce be used. Ask for a double chicken, double egg Kaati.

“Nepalis like the Kaatis with tomato sauce, and we add it because their fame spreads by word of mouth and kids bring their parents here to eat them,” said Nangia.

The Tangri Kebab should be as popular if not more so once word gets out about how delicately delicious it is. Evenly flavoured with ginger, paprika, cumin and yoghurt and cooked to a gorgeous brown, these chicken drumsticks are marinated through and through by slits made in them.

“I do a lot of seminar, catering and beginning with cholley and baturas or beans and a kind of bread for breakfast, we go on to a buffet for lunch which could include kebabs and curries and biryanis,” said Nangia pointing to an area where delegates eat. The seminar rooms are above.

Chef Alam modifies the classic Murgh Malai Tikka into a smokey delicious dish that rivals the ordinary popular Tikka by just using salt, pepper and yoghurt in the marinade. A more complex version requires Cheddar Cheese but Alam’s version is more memorable.

When it comes to the Kadhai Chicken (chicken made in a wok) Alam and his fellow Bawarchis are purists. They have a thick tomato gravy enveloping the chicken with flavours of garlic, ginger, chillies, coriander and a hint of capsicum that brings this hugely popular dish to life as it spreads its taste in your mouth. The garlic and ginger are finely chopped for a more even flavour and the chillies add taste.

We didn’t have space for the Mughlai Paratha so popular in Calcutta or for the Chicken Bartha or the Biryanis, but we promised Nangia we would be there when he opens Bawarchi up in Maharajgunj.

“Kathmandu has become a city that loves eating. Each good area is a food hub and I hope to have Bawarchis in all of them,” said Nangia.

The Bluebird Bawarchi’s telephone number is 9741000735.