KATHMANDU
In the bustling heart of Kathmandu, amidst the lively community of Boudha, a time-honoured tradition thrives, deeply cherished by the local Tamang community.
Ropain Jatra, also known as the Ghonai Jatra in the Tamang language, is a festivity that embodies the essence of community, tradition, and the rich tapestry of Nepali life.
Jaymangal Lama, Chairman of the Boudha Tamang Kalyan Guthi and a seasoned contributor to cultural and educational organisations for over three decades, sheds light on the significance of this remarkable tradition.
A celebration of plantation and rice
In Boudha, the Ghonai Jatra holds a unique significance, eclipsing even the more widely known Gai Jatra. This day symbolises the arrival of the rice planting season, and the streets come alive with a scene straight from the heart of agricultural Nepal. Ghonai Jatra is usually celebrated the day after Gai Jatra.
Oxen plough the fertile fields, women ropar delicately plant rice saplings, while men bausey toil in the muddy fields. This quintessential ropain (planting) scene is a display of the deep-rooted agricultural heritage of Nepal, where the majority of the population depends on farming for their livelihoods.
However, Ghonai Jatra is more than a celebration of platning; it's a vibrant reflection of the central role that rice plays in Nepali households. Rice, the staple food of all Nepalis, graces their plates at least twice a day.
Honouring the departed
While Ghonai Jatra is primarily a festival celebrating planting, it also pays tribute to departed family members. However, a subtle yet fascinating difference emerges when one compares the Lakhey Naach (dance) of the Tamang and Newar communities. In the Newar community, the Lakhey Naach symbolises Bhagwan (God) in its pure form.
Jaymangal Lama informs that in the Tamang community, the Lakhey Naach serves a different purpose altogether.
Tashi Lama, advisor of the Guthi, emphasises the significance of the Lakhey Naach, which is performed in approximately 60 close-knit homes - guthis. During the Lakhey Naach, an all-female dance, participants dress as both men and women, symbolising a unique expression of women's independence and freedom.
Every year, Lakhey Naach is observed from the day of Naag Panchami and ends on full the moon day (Janai Purnima). Legend has it that a heavenly body safeguards the vicinity of Boudha, mainly the stupa premises, with the arrival of the lakhey. It is believed that Lakhey Naach in the homes of individuals banishes evil spirits and brings peace, prosperity, health and blessing.
For the community, Lakhey Naach is a way of solidifying the community's deeply rooted religious values rather than a mere display of entertainment.
Jaymangal Lama says Ghonai Jatra has evolved over the years, albeit with some changes that have affected its significance.
In the past, natural adornments were favoured, in contrast to the artificial enhancements prevalent in recent times.
Consequently, the festival's cultural signifi-cance has dwindled over the years, risking the loss of an essential tradition.
To safeguard the cultural heritage of Ghonai Jatra, the Guthi actively supports and funds events such as competitions, where numerous schools participate, offering rewards and appointing judges and evaluation committees. In the most recent edition, six schools actively participated in keeping the tradition alive.
Over time, Ghonai Jatra in Boudha has garnered substantial attention, attracting an audience of 2-3lakhs within a week. This popularity underscores the enduring allure of these age-old traditions and the importance of preserving them for generations to come, adds Jaymangal Lama.
One of the most striking sights during this festivity is the spirited horse ride.
Lakpa Dorje Lama, a local resident of Boudha, has been an integral part of this tradition for over five decades now. In doing so, Lakpa not only upholds this cherished practice but also safeguards a legacy that has been handed down through generations.
For Lakpa, this annual ride is more than a cultural spectacle; it is a deeply rooted tradition inherited from his ancestors that he takes immense pride in continuing.
A nod to history
According to local legends, the adorned horses pay homage to a historical king who undertook epic journeys from Temal VDC of Kavre district to Boudha. In a playful nod to this regal history, the horses become living parodies of this revered figure, galloping through the streets with an air of majesty.
The horse ride during Ghonai Jatra transcends a mere festival activity. In all its vibrancy, it serves as a vivid reminder that traditions when honoured with reverence, have the power to bridge time and connect the community to its roots.
For health and happiness
Yet another significant festival gracing Boudha's cultural calendar is the Ding-Ding Nakading. This event sees children aged one to five donning traditional attire with the aim of promoting good health. It's the commitment of the community to dedicate holistic well-being and the importance they place on nurturing their youngsters.
A tradition rooted in timelessness
As the festivities span from Shree Panchami to Krishna Janmashtami there is a sense of timelessness in these traditions. Ghonai Jatra, with its focus on entertainment, women's independence, children's health, and cultural preservation, has undoubtedly left an indelible mark on the cultural landscape of the Tamang community of Boudha.
While it may have borrowed a few elements of Lakhey Naach from the Newar culture, its essence and significance have taken on a distinct identity of its own.
In a world where traditions are constantly evolving, Boudha's Ghonai Jatra serves as a beacon of cultural resilience celebrating not the richness of Nepali culture but reminding us of the importance of safeguarding our heritage for future generations.
A version of this article appears in the print on September 17, 2023, of The Himalayan Times.
