KATHMANDU, MAY 16

Renowned Nepali climber Mingma Gyalje Sherpa successfully scaled Mt Everest without using supplemental oxygen this morning.

'I have made it to the top of the world for the sixth time today. But, this time is 'without using bottled oxygen,' Sherpa, an IFMGA/UIAGM certified guide, told THT over satellite phone after reaching the summit.

With today's summit, Sherpa completed his 13th 8000er that he had done without the aid of bottled oxygen. For him, only Shishapangma in Tibet is left to complete all 14 peaks and to be the first Nepali climber to do so in Nepal's climbing history. Sherpa, however, climbed Mt Everest in – 2007, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2016 – but he had used bottled oxygen while standing atop the world's highest peak.

'Sherpa has already become the first Nepali climber to make the most ascents of 8,000-metre peaks without using supplemental oxygen,' an official at the Department of Tourism reacted.

Born in Rolwaling, the climbers' valley, Sherpa is also the first summiteer on Mt Cheki-Go (6,257m), Mt Bamongo (6,400m) and Mt Chobuje (6,685m) via west. Sherpa also stood atop G-II making it the 12th eight-thousander that he climbed without using supplemental oxygen in 2019. Sherpa was among the 10 Nepali climbers who scripted history in mountain-climbing by making the first ever winter ascent of the world's second highest peak last year.

This season, he climbed Mt Dhaulagiri, Mt Kanchenjunga and Mt Everest, Sherpa, who also runs Imagine Nepal Trek and Expedition, said. The three-time K2 summiteer also said that he would also attempt to complete all the Seven Summits, the highest peaks of each of the world's continents next year.

Mingma G's Summit Record:

- Mt Everest - 2007, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2016 and 2022

- K2 – 2014, 2017 and 2021

- Kanchenjunga – 2013 and 2022

- Lhotse – 2018

- Makalu – 2017

- Cho Oyu – 2007

- Dhaulagiri – 2017 and 2022

- Manaslu - 2009, 2011, 2016, 2018 and 2021

- Nanga Parbat – 2017

- Annapurna – 2015

- Gasherbrum I – 2016

- Broad Peak – 2018