Environment

When the sun becomes an enemy: Life on climate change's frontline in Sri Lanka's Mannar

By Bal Krishna Sah

An art installation by Subodh Kerkar, calling for climate justice and accountability, depicts rising temperatures in Mannar and globally at Keeri Beach in Mannar, Sri Lanka. Photo: THT

MANNAR (SRI LANKA), OCTOBER 26 In Sri Lanka's northern island district of Mannar, climate change is no longer a distant warning. It is felt in the headaches of young people, shrinking harvests of farmers and uncertain seasons of fishermen. For Cheremicca, a 20-year-old student, the shift is stark. 'It wasn't like this 10 years ago,' she says. 'It was warm. Now, it's burning hot.' She describes headaches, exhaustion, sleeplessness and sunburns as everyday realities. How do people cope? 'Accept reality and go on.' Yet beneath this resilience lies a pressing question: How long can a community adapt when its environment changes faster than its ability to respond? A HEAT THAT FOLLOWS PEOPLE EVERYWHERE Asked about the most visible impact of climate change in Mannar, Qunson Marynathan, a 43-year-old environmental advocate and agricultural practitioner, does not hesitate. 'People, everybody is getting sick,' he says. 'I am sick. I've been sick for 10 days now.' Excessive heat strains eyesight and triggers chronic headaches. 'People say, 'I get a headache,' but if you ask them why, they have been out. Just being under the sun for four or five hours in a row will make you sick. And then it follows up with a sore or dry throat, and you start coughing.' For local farmers and fishermen, adjusting work schedules to avoid heat is impossible - their livelihoods depend on being outside. Classrooms offer no relief either. Children arrive at school by 8:00am, but conditions remain punishing. 'None of these schools in Mannar have air-conditioning. None of them,' Marynathan notes. Stagnant air and power outages mean children sit in stifling heat for nearly six hours a day. Abhinaya, 26, a social sciences student, observes that once-predictable seasons now shift abruptly. Five or 10 years ago, residents could easily anticipate hot or cold months. Today, extreme temperature swings leave older adults and infants vulnerable to fevers and colds. She also notes rising anxiety over dengue, with health workers inspecting homes for breeding grounds. While these are personal accounts rather than clinical studies, they highlight a community acutely aware of how a warming climate threatens daily well-being. WHEN THE FLOWERS BLOOM BUT THE FRUIT NEVER COMES Mannar forms part of Sri Lanka's agricultural heartland, where farmers rely on seasonal rainfall. Marynathan sees the impact firsthand in his farming. 'I can see the flowers grow, but not the fruits,' he says. 'There's a lot of flowers coming in, but no yields.' Heatwaves and intense UV radiation contribute to the crisis, alongside declining local pollinators. 'If the temperature is too high, honeybees won't stay out long. They come in the morning, go back to settle down and wait until evening to return. Pollination drops significantly.' He adds, 'Not everything is backed by scientific data yet, but everything points there.' Unpredictable weather compounds the issue. Abhinaya notes that farmers can no longer anticipate rainfall, throwing planting cycles into chaos. George, a 59-year-old farmer, has watched temperatures rise and rains shift over five or six years. When crops fail, fields must be re-sown, driving up costs before any harvest is assured. Marynathan references a study estimating that global wheat and rice yields could drop by 16 and 37 per cent by 2030. 'You work the same piece of land, put in the same effort, do everything possible, and one out of three people still won't get food,' he says. 'It's an estimate, but that shows how severe this is.' For Mannar's farmers, environmental uncertainty has become a heavy economic burden. THE SEA IS CHANGING TOO For fishermen, timing and water conditions dictate survival. 'A lot of fishes here are adapted to a particular temperature range,' Marynathan explains. 'They can only breed, feed and survive within that window. If you raise the temperature by even two degrees Celsius, they will either migrate or fail to reproduce.' Warming surface waters also alter ocean currents, disrupting migratory pathways. 'We used to have seasons where a particular species of fish was abundant,' he says. 'Now, even during peak seasons, yields are low.' George echoes this, describing catches that no longer arrive as expected, translating to shrinking incomes and precarious planning. While climate change is not the sole pressure on marine life, Marynathan emphasises that it acts as a multiplier alongside overfishing and illegal practices. 'Climate change isn't the only reason, but it acts as a stimulant and an accelerator for all these other problems.' SUFFERING FOR A PROBLEM OTHERS HELPED CREATE For Cheremicca, the central issue is climate justice: Should those suffering the worst impacts bear the burden alone? Should polluters pay? 'We did not cause this problem, but we are all suffering the consequences,' she says. 'Polluters must be held accountable.' Global carbon emissions recognise no borders, yet their worst consequences land on vulnerable communities with limited resources. For young residents in Mannar, climate change is not a distant threat - it dictates whether their home remains liveable and if family livelihoods stay viable. THE FUTURE OF AN ISLAND THAT WANTS TO REMAIN HOME Despite these hardships, the people of Mannar continue to study, farm, fish and raise families. But resilience should not be confused with an absence of suffering, nor serve as an excuse for global inaction. Cheremicca's outlook - 'Accept reality and go on' - captures the grit required to endure a changing climate. Yet it carries a quiet warning: Acceptance may be necessary for daily survival, but it is no substitute for real action. The true measure of Mannar's future will not be calculated solely in temperature charts or crop yield statistics. It will be found in whether a child can learn in a comfortable classroom, whether a farmer can secure a harvest, whether a fisherman can depend on the sea and whether the next generation can build a future in the place they call home today.