Kathmandu:

We like to think that we serve ‘cosmop-olitan’ cuisine at Café Mitra,” said Kunal Lama, “tastes are changing, there is a global coming together of food and we have dishes and influences from all over the world. Today people want the world on a plate.”

Café Mitra occupies two floors in an old Newari town house in the heart of Thamel. There is a lounge on one floor where drinks, snacks and chatter match the distinctive décor. Below, where we sat to dine, is the restaurant with a changing exhibition of art on the walls and reflects a changing menu.

New for us was the Cooled steamed tofu with soy and ginger dressing. Slightly spiced, the starter has the mouth feeling a range of resistances from soft to crunchy supplied by the ginger and spring onions. Kunal writes, “Simple as Simon from Sichaun. Steam the tofu... then pour over the pre-prepared dressing of chopped spring onion ginger and soy sauce.” Eat this super dish and think of the soft tofu which was developed in 130 BC by Prince Liu An in China to help him achieve immortality.

Cooling to the mortal tongue and subtle to the taste buds is the famous cold soup Vichyssoise of which Kunal writes, “The American ‘French’ classic summer soup of organic leeks from Sano Thimi gently cooked with potatoes from Mude. Serve chilled. Great warm too.”

Of the soup, the cooks Irma and Marion Rombauer say, “The soup is superlative and should be served velvety smooth” — as it was in Café Mitra.

For me childhood memories came flooding with the Thick pork cutlet, which is minced pork, pan-grilled served with home made tomato and pepper chutney. Distinctly delicious (and Kunal’s protestations aside), it had nuances of Anglo India and a version of it is to be found in the 40’s cookbook by Sita Pasricha and Attia Hussein, who were writing for Indophiles in post-war London. Of the chutney, an anonymous 18th century author says, “Chutneys are of Indian origin and invention and several kinds which the receipts (sic) are here given, are such as are taken by the natives of India, who find relish in them, the more spicy and pungent they are. They are vastly improved by the mellowing influences of the sun.”

Café Mitra’s accompanying chutney comes closest to a Raj tomato chutney made by Lady Mac Farquhar. I remember eating the cutlets at railway stations in India. But Café Mitra’s experience was better by far because of the ingredients in the mince and the sharp chutney.

Arjun Dhakal brought on the stupendous Baked marinated goat’s cheese with pine nuts of which Kunal writes that the marination is with herbs and then the whole is baked in a pastry cake. The dish is reminiscent of a Greek dish popular in 370 BC made from goats’ or ewes’ cheese, which was flavoured with herbs and spices and baked. The cheese was handed out as reward to children and ‘Little Cheese’ was a term of endearment.

There are 25 dishes on the Café Mitra menu. The all-time classic for me is the Steak with the Wassabi mayonnaise, which is a contrast of soft meat and a tangy original Japanese mayonnaise.

For dessert, try the Melting hot chocolate soufflé. Kunal sums this treat better than I could by saying it is a perennial favourite with lots of chocolate and egg-whites which rise to form an enticing dish, “with a melting heart which has delighted one and all”. Which describes the Café Mitra experience to perfection. Call 4259015.