A fortnight ago, my wife and I decided to go to Thamel.

She wanted to buy a few windcheaters, and I to count tourists.

I had heard plenty of stories about the tourist drought turning into a tourist flash flood, which sounded like a touch of King Midas - too good to be true. So, we decided to ride on our e-scooter to the Ibiza of Kathmandu. Going to Thamel is not a cakewalk anymore.

Gone are the days when we could drive as we like to Thamel, park on the road, eat green salad and cheesecake at the KC's and return home as pleased as pie.

Today, it is easier to go to Thailand than to wade through the grinding traffic to Thamel.

When my wife suggested that we go to Black Rock in Thamel, I felt the worst. But I could not say no to her request anymore.

The last time I had gone to Thamel was about 24 months ago to look for 'On the Road' by Jack Kerouac. Then COVID-19 had evaporated the people – locals and tourists – from much of the streets, and driving was a breeze. But Thamel had retained its lustre. Traders had hung on to their business, hoping that the good days were only a short jump and hop away. But after nearly 30 months, my wife and I arrived at Nepali Elm Street. Hollywood horror lovers would know what Elm Street is. Thamel had turned into a ghost town, discarded and depressing.

People can comfort themselves as much as they like with bouts of optimism, but reigniting tourism could take years.

The problem with life and business is once there is a pause, it is difficult to restart. The dilemma haunts one of the nephews of my wife. His wife left him abruptly, and he is at a loss to pick up the thread of his life.

Such a dilemma overwhelms the Nepali tourist industry, too.

But life must go on, as I told the deserted man. 'Don't waste your life brooding; find a new wife,' I advised the jilted hubby.

I proffer the same encouragement to the traders: 'Go abroad and find tourist customers,' adding, 'you aren't going to get the tourists coming waiting in your hotels in the local Ibiza.'

Tourism dollars are vital for the nation, not just for the traders.

With the national dollar reserve reportedly on the wane, there is no alternative but to prop up tourism for quality tourists. It is necessary but won't be easy.

We have a brand new airport in 74 years, and our traders, some of whom have spent a lifetime chasing tourists, would have the required talent to play the right tune.

A version of this article appears in the print on May 20, 2022, of The Himalayan Times.