Over the Dashain festival I had the opportunity to visit the Tarai, in particular Madhes Province. It was not the first time, but it happened, complicit COVID, after more than three years. I am not exaggerating here when I say that I was surprised about what I saw.

Free market economists probably would define the changes by the way of the so-called 'indivisible hand' first described by Adam Smith in the 18th century.

I am at risk of becoming a laughingstock if I confess that I was puzzled by the high number of Piaggio tuk tuks, the same Italian brand that also owns Vespa and Aprilia. Perhaps, because I am originally from there, I was glad to see how our know-out is not only doing 'good' but is also being replicated (alias copied) by the competitors.

But beyond the local tuk tuks carrying passengers, I was also positively surprised by the overall economic fervour with a multitude of new shops selling a great variety of goods. Indeed trading is so good and money is moving around that you also find a high number of national banks and local cooperatives.

As someone involved in the development sector for a while, I am aware that these insights are hiding latent signs of inequalities, all proving great social imbalances between the new middle class and others who are lagging behind so much.

If you think well, the Valley of Kathmandu is not that different, but the few days I spent in the Tarai, which offered me the opportunity to zoom in on a fascinating microcosm that, I must confess, I do not understand much besides the observations I am humbly offering here.

The governance conundrum in the Tarai and elsewhere is really difficult to untangle and fully understand.

I must admit that I also notice a 'stronger' presence of the institutions albeit mostly in terms of new buildings for the local municipalities and police.

Frankly I do not discount such type of progress, and mine is a line that is grossly at odds with the mainstream thinking in the development sector, something of which I have been, to some extent, a part of in the past.

Let me explain. I believe that the credibility of the institutions, at all levels, depends on a variety of factors, primarily honesty and personal accountability.

Put together, these are the pillars of what I call the so called 'self-leadership' where first we work hard and take the initiative so that we are able to forge collaborations with others.

In short, self-leadership is about putting our values first and do whatever we can to remain aligned to them, day in and day, out and actively get out of our shells and work with others in good faith.

So when local and national politicians are working hard and espouse the concept of self-leadership, then change happens.

Yet, returning to the Tarai after this detour on leadership, I believe that citizens need not only to expect politicians able to put up a fight for ensuring access to proper infrastructures: be they hospitals or schools or the Mayors' office where they can see institutions that are not dirty, smelling or simply collapsing.

So what I saw was really good 'hardware' that, according to my little theory, should induce and motivate people to search for ways to solve their problems and fulfil their legitimate rights by keeping their elected officials accountable.

But, of course, my wondering of a few places in Madesh Province was not just about how easily I can be impressed by 'apparent' development.

What really surprised me and positively shocked me was the dynamism of the local youths. You can see local girls from all the ethnic spectrum moving around in new bicycles, smiling and confident.

I have no idea if the bicycles were the result of good governance or just more purchasing power among the locals. Yet it is good to see many girls going around and having fun and taking lesser time to go to school.

While also enjoying my Nepali chiya in a local shop, I also came to know about two local boys still very much in studying age. I visited them several times because I loved sipping real amazing milk tea while reading a bunch of newspapers I did not have yet the possibility to go through.

I never felt comfortable asking them if they were working, but, at the same time, they were also going to study, but I was truly impressed by their exceptional work ethic.

On the last day I took courage and asked them. I was happy to know that both of them were going to school during the normal academic year, and probably they were working there just to help and support their families.

I was also surprised to see how a young girl and a young boy were dealing with their micro businesses, one selling bracelets and the latter fruits.

I also met an incredible guy, a 21-year-old amazing barber who also owned the shop, maybe thanks to the remittances of some of his family members. Believe me, he was very professional and also speaking decent English.

From shining tuk tuks to better state infrastructure to these amazing youths, paragons of grassroots self-leadership, I returned to Kathmandu very confident about the future of the Tarai.

Of course, we need a comprehensive good governance framework that also entails good public schools and hospitals.

Fighting over inequalities that are still pervasive is not a joke, and my rosy scenario is not aimed at discouraging a stronger conversation on how to uplift all those still struggling. Girls and boys who do not own yet a bicycle and struggle to remain enrolled at schools.

It is going to be a long way, but the folks of the Tarai seem to be reliant and determined enough to pursue their quest for self-leadership and personal success no matter what politicians do or no.

We need simply to work at unison with each of us putting in real efforts so that the 'cake' can be made bigger and, most importantly, fairer.

Galimberti is the co-founder of ENGAGE, an NGO

A version of this article appears in the print on October 20, 2022 of The Himalayan Times.