Climbing the Seven Summits: Which mountaineering challenge variation is the safest?
Published: 01:01 pm Apr 14, 2024
KATHMANDU: First achieved in 1985 by Richard Bass, climbing the Seven Summits remains a dream and endeavor for many of the world's top mountaineers. Approximately 500 people have conquered the highest peaks on each continent, with our Mount Everest in Nepal serving as a beacon for climbers globally.
The Seven Summits vary based on different continental and political definitions-particularly concerning the borders of a continent and security and political concerns between countries. This variation results in two major points of contention. The first is whether Mont Blanc or Mount Elbrus represents Europe's highest peak, depending on whether the Greater Caucasus watershed (between the Black and Caspian Seas) is considered the boundary separating Europe from Asia, positioning Mount Elbrus in Europe.
The second point concerns the highest peak in Oceania-whether it's Puncak Jaya (also known as 'Carstensz Pyramid'), Mount Kosciuszko, or Mount Wilhelm. The distinction depends on whether the Sahul Shelf and mainland Australia are included as part of the continent or if parts of Indonesia are considered part of Asia.
If Indonesia is assumed to be part of Asia, which geopolitically is, then Mount Wilhelm becomes the highest peak in Oceania. Alternatively, if the New Guinea island of Indonesia is considered part of Oceania and the rest of Indonesia as part of Asia, then Puncak Jaya is the highest. This has led some to propose an 'Eight Summits' concept to include both major points.
This results in several versions of the Seven Summits:
Everest, Aconcagua, Denali, Kilimanjaro, Vinson, Elbrus, Mount Wilhelm
Everest, Aconcagua, Denali, Kilimanjaro, Vinson, Elbrus, Kosciuszko (the Bass version)
Everest, Aconcagua, Denali, Kilimanjaro, Vinson, Elbrus, Puncak Jaya (the Messner version)
Everest, Aconcagua, Denali, Kilimanjaro, Vinson, Mont Blanc, Mount Wilhelm (the Wilhelm version)
In terms of climbing, the Russian invasion of Ukraine has affected Western climbers' ability to travel to Europe, making Mount Elbrus less attractive. Similarly, Puncak Jaya in New Guinea has been closed due to security concerns and the risks posed by ongoing tribal conflicts and mining operations. These challenges have prevented climbers from accessing the area, further complicated by a security lockdown since August 2019.
The situation escalated in February 2023 when Papuan rebels took New Zealand pilot Philip Mark Mehrtens hostage, signaling a new level of risk for foreigners. The rebels' declaration marked an intensification of the conflict, making travel to New Guinea highly advised against. Consequently, many climbers postponed their expedition to climb Carstensz Pyramid, scheduled for March, until the regional conflict subsides.
In summary, the Mount Wilhelm version of the Seven Summits currently presents the safest option for climbers, avoiding travel to Russia and New Guinea. Papua New Guinea remains safer for mountaineers, and Mount Wilhelm offers an excellent high mountain expedition experience as the highest peak in Oceania.