Nepal

Two virgin peaks conquered in Upper Mustang Himal

By THT Online

He Jing

KATHMANDU, FEBRUARY 9 A joint expedition led by renowned Chinese mountaineer He Jing, along with Nepali climbers from Seven Summit Treks (SST), has completed the first ascents of two previously unclimbed peaks in the Mustang Himal Range of Upper Mustang. The expedition team summited Jyanglatunpu (6,062 metres) at around 9:25 am and later reached the top of Kekyap Ri (6,187 metres) at approximately 12:45 pm on Monday, marking a significant milestone in Himalayan exploration, according to Chhang Dawa Sherpa, SST's Expedition Director. He Jing, 37, from Xi'an, Shaanxi province, is globally known as the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders to their true summits without bottled oxygen and an athlete of Pelliot. She became the first woman to climb the true summits of all 14 of the world's 8,000-metre peaks without supplemental oxygen, after reaching the top of Mt. Manaslu on September 23 2025. He Jing was accompanied by IFMGA Guide Dawa Phinjo Lama Bhote and senior guides of Seven Summit Treks (SST), including Ming Temba Sherpa, Phurba Sonam Sherpa and Speed Dawa, Sherpa added.

The SST–Pelliot exploratory expedition departed Kathmandu on February 4 and followed an alternative route into the Ghyun Valley, previously explored by another SST first-ascent team. The climbers then crossed Kekyap La (5,600 metres) before moving northwest to establish base camp on February 8 at the foot of the two peaks. The summit push began at around 2:25 am on February 9. Following the successful ascents, the team is currently descending to base camp and is planning to attempt the final unclimbed peak of the Chhuama Range-Chhuama IV (6,179 metres) in the coming days, Sherpa further said. The expedition was organized by Seven Summit Treks and supported by Pelliot, which provided technical gear and equipment tested during the climbs on the virgin Himalayan peaks. He Jing scaled Makalu in 2018, Annapurna in 2019, Dhaulagiri in 2021, Everest, Lhotse, K2, and Broad Peak in 2022, and Kanchenjunga, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I, and Cho Oyu in 2023, and Shishapangma (8,027 m) in 2024, all without oxygen.