Kathmandu:

The Galouti Kebab lived up to its name. It melted in my mouth and the taste of kewra, rose water and the gentler spices of Avadh or Oudh (as the British called it) were as aromatic as they were tasty.

Said Amandeep Singh, the chef responsible for bringing Avadh and Dum Pukht cuisine to the Soaltee Crowne Plaza, “Let the aromas speak for themselves.”

And they did with the Galouti and the Chandani Kebab, whose paneer whiteness was wrapped in edible silver paper that didn’t detract from the brilliant aromas of Avadhi spices like nutmeg or mace.

While keeping a few dishes from the Bukhara menu, Chef Singh and F&B manager Sarad Upadhyay and adviser Nawab Hyder Kazmi have brought the finest dishes from Avadh, which rose to greatness in the 18th century and the greatness lingers in the exquisite food, manners, poetry and so much else.

Kakor was a part of the Avadhi state and is a few miles from Lucknow of which the great food writer Madhur Jaffrey says, “Lucknow was once the capital of the independent Muslim kingdom of Avadh and the best foods here are rich.”

I sometimes think, I like a good Yakhni better than a Biryani. It’s lighter and like all things Avadhi (the Yakhni found brief glory in Delhi but then migrated to Avadh where everyone still loves and cooks it like my friends Jawed and Ghazala) it has aromatic spices like fennel or sonf, cinnamon, bay leaves and cardamoms. Between them Messers Upadhyay and Singh produced a Yakhni that a Nawab would applaud.

Welcomegroup and the Maurya in Delhi opened Dum Pukht and Bukhara together. To this day, both restaurants still get prizes for the best Indian restaurant. Good food must have a story. Here is one from Indian food writer Jiggs Kalra, “To feed his starving subjects during the famine of 1784, Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah decided to provide jobs by building the Bara Imambara. The monument was built by day and destroyed at night. During its build-and-destroy stages, huge quantities of food were cooked, sealed in degs (gigantic handis) and then kept warm in massive double-walled bukhari or ovens. As a result, the prepared food would get steamed in the gentle heat of the bukhari.” Dum Pukht means steam cooked. For authenticity Kakori has gone back in time to use dishes like Lagans and Mahi Tawas.

Authentic too was the Avadhi Raan, the whole leg of lamb that is tenderised and cooked with yoghurt, poppy seeds, almonds, cloves, mace. It is allowed to cook until a thick gravy forms about it. For me it is the best of the Raans from India. It’s a Jaffrey favourite.

The tender and delicious Murgh Bahar came in a heavily reduced gravy with tastes of mace or javitri and cardamom or elaichi. It was the other end of the spectrum of Nahari Ghost of which Jiggs Kalra says, “This was originally a breakfast food. In days gone by this rural light gravy lamb delicacy was eaten in the wee hours of the morning.” Lightly spiced with onions, cloves, garlic paste and vertivier.

The menu has a White Korma with a rich cashewnut gravy, a genuine Dum Biryani and breads with romantic names like Taftan which is rare leavened bread with pistachio, almond and melon seeds.

There are desserts which are fusioned so you have a Chocolate Mousse with Kalakand, Wild Berry Bavarian Tarte with Rabri and you have the original Matka Kulfi. We will be meeting each other endlessly at Kakori and may you have a healthy appetite and the wish to be Nawabi for a night. Call 4273999.