Dubby Bhagat

The menu at Kilroy’s writes its own review. For example, the cover of the menu asks ‘’What brought you to Kathmandu?’’ and Kilroy writes it was his partner Robert Desjardins and Basu D Ghimire and the fact that Thomas Kilroy wanted to open a restaurant at the age of 27 and the time was right on 6th of September 1998. As we sampled Fish and Chips In Newspaper, Thomas recalled, ‘’Six years of a roller-coaster ride, which has added a lot of flavors and ingredients to the bowl of soup that we call ‘life’.’’ He adds that like Bono he has been allowed, ‘’To dream up the world we want to live in and dream out loud’’. …and there is dreaming even in the simple Fish And Chips wrapped traditionally in newspaper, dreaming as you trace, the dish from the first mention of fried fish in Charles Dickens’, Oliver Twist in 1838 to the story about simple folk eating their fish and chips in tabloid newspapers to the Queen of England preferring the superior ink of The Times. ‘’I favour the one pot policy, by cooking everything in a single utensil,’’ said Thomas as he produced a miraculous Smoked Salmon Soufflé, which more than passed the test of ‘’rising’’ to the occasion and having a lightly browned crust and a filling that allowed a hint of smoked salmon to titillate the taste buds. If Thomas made that in one pot it is equal to the miracle of loaves and fish but leaves that biblical comparison taste years behind.

Kishore Maharjan of The Himalayan Bank admitted to being enchanted as Thomas brought on dish after dish after dish. His daughter in England, wherever she dines, wouldn’t have it as good as we did with Kilroy. The French Onion Soup ‘Desjardins’ was classic with the slightly sweet taste of onions balanced by the Nak Cheese Crouton and the Chilled Potato and Spinach Soup was perfectly served encased in ice, but the simple pumpkin and ginger soup with its distinctive flavour easily equaled the classics. ‘’I first met my wife Arati at a Valentine’s party in the restaurant in ‘99. This combination was created to celebrate our 5th Anniversary together,’’ wrote Thomas in his menu describing the Baked ‘Tart Tatin’ topped with Smoked Salmon, Soured Cream and Pesto. The puff pastry that held up the other ingredients was delightfully light and the pesto was discreetly used so that the smoked salmon and sour cream were not drowned, but came out and ran riot on our palates.

‘’Ingredients have a different way of speaking to you in different languages in different parts of the world,’’ said Thomas Kilroy. For me the Boeuf Ragout flavored with smoked bacon was a classic French stew with a robust body-du corps as the French call it-which had reduced stock and red wine caressing crisp vegetables offset with the softness of mushrooms. It was between a Boeuf Bourguignonne, a Chicken Chasseur and a Belgian Carbonnade. Thomas Kilroy wrote, ‘’We used to make it with Guiness but we drank them out of stock. Ke garne??’’

The Granny Madden’s Irish Stew which Thomas says was his grandmother’s recipe is the classic Colcannon which has green cabbage, potatoes, leek and skimmed milk and meat flavored with nutmeg. It’s occasionally served with a piece of bacon. “I like using black pepper as an ingredient,’’ said Thomas and my personal favorite was the Saffron and Mushrooms Risotto with white wine, whipped cream and,’’ lots of love and attention.’’ Black pepper and spring onions bring the dish to vibrant life.

Thomas Kilroy is a trained and tested pastry Chef who has discovered that stressed spelled backwards is desserts. And what extraordinary desserts. Thomas pays homage to his culinary gurus with dishes like Anton Mosimann’s, Bread and Butter Pudding which is startlingly light and is the signature dish of one of Kilroy’s heroes, as is the Warm Chocolate and Orange Fondant ‘John Huber’, where citrus cuts the sweetness of melted chocolate and has Kilroy saying of this fabulously soft centered, sea-of-chocolate dish, ‘’ We have created chocolate shortages in Nepal because of it.’’ An evening at Kilroy’s of Kathmandu, being served by Hari Bagale who knows his wines as well as he knows the menu, and being surrounded by friends like Kishore, Thomas and Robert and Ashu demands a one word comment, ‘’Encore’’. A fact that tourists and residents alike have discovered much to their return -again delight.

For Kilroy Kuisine call 4422999. You’ll see me there Rissoto-ing.