Kathmandu:

The thick spicy, gravy at Sing-Ma changes taste as you add the Nasi Lemak or Coconut Rice, and then yet again a new taste emerges when you add the Sambal — a condiment whose basis are peppers. There are 11 kinds of Sambals, and the Rendang Curry had a Sambal closest to a Lombok or Javanese Sambal made from green and red peppers that are relatively mild.

Then you add the anchovies, and there is yet another taste.

When Singapore City was created, a fine hotel came to be in 1887— Raffles. Rudyard Kipling, the poet of the Empire, used to eat enormous meals there, visit the Botanic Gardens and then return to “eat six different chutneys with one curry”.

That curry was the Malaysian Rendang Curry.

“Sing-Ma not only combines Singapore and Malaysia, it also implies the auspicious Chinese horse that brings success to ventures,” said our host Jason Ngan. He is one of the “escapees” from Singapore and Malaysia, who began Sing-Ma in a medium sized room with a mix of 60 per cent foreigners and 40 per cent locals. They had to move to bigger premises because the ratio changed to 40 per cent foreigners to 60 per cent locals. Jason, his wife and his “fellow escapees” (partners) are happy here away from the hecticness of Singapore and Malaysia.

The menu at Sing-Ma talks to you, and of Malaysian food, it says, “There are just no limits to that term. What would you expect, when the county is such a melting point of cultures? We have the three main ethnic groups — Malays, Chinese and Indian.”

You have Mamak food and Mamak stalls and restaurants. This is Indian-Muslim food, many of these stalls are open 24 hours a day. A favourite Mamak dish which we had was The Roti Canai or Roti Prata. It is a many layered lachadar paratha and a curry that is thin and very close to a Korma with yoghurt and coconut milk giving it a light colour but a korma taste. I decided I could make a meal of just the parathas and the Canai, pronounced Chan-nai, which can be confusing since that is South Indian whereas the dish comes from the middle or North India.

Dili Magar, who was serving us, brought on Nyonya Assam Vegetables. If Mamak is Indian-Malaysian, then Nyonya is Chinese-Malaysian and the Assam is generally spelt Asam and refers to spice. The gravy, which cauliflowers and other vegetables came in, had a black soya sauce as base with myriad spices making it come to life and yet you could taste the uniqueness of each vegetable. Delicious.

The Cha Siew Pau is a bun filled with roast pork which is fried with spices and onions; almost a jhalfrajie from Anglo India. Very addictive.

Also Nyona delicious was a Fried Kueh Teow, which was fried noodles soaked in  a number of tastes from the chives and bean sprouts to eggs and soya sauce. The rice noodles absorbs all the goodness and you benefit bite after bite.

We know that thousands of years ago, a Chinese Prince thought that Tofu would make him immortal. The Yong Tau Fuo has a poetic immortality about it.

Imagine biting into soft tofu and coming to a centre of springy minced chicken, spiced with chillies. It was both unusual and gorgeous. No single taste disturbed the others.

The fried banana fritters like everything else in Sing-Ma were a delight. The menu taught us the use of the word Lah and when Jason said, “Have some more -lah”, we were forced to say a very heartfelt, “Sorry-lah”.

Call 5009092.