Kathmandu:

The lush green fields during the plantation season charm you, while the barren brown fields have a beauty of their own when you go to Khokana during the dry spells like winter. The beauty of Khokana lies in the fact that it is not far from the city centre yet it is a place that has perhaps forgotten how to count the years. It still seems like yesteryears as one walks along the footpaths cut into the fields here.

The village has a character of its own. It has retained that look, untouched by modernity. As you walk past the old style homes, smile at or exchange a word of greeting with people sitting in these ancient porches clad in traditional daura-suruwal or gunyo-cholo, side step a duck or a goat, you will feel transported back to a period that perhaps you may have encountered in some painting.

Yet there is the Khokana Museum that boasts a sign which claims that this was the first house in Nepal to get electricity.

Elaborating on how the place got its name, local resident Rabindra Maharjan, said, “Previously the people from here lived in a place known as Kudes, but they were troubled by devils and had to leave their homes. As they were crying when they came here, and as in Newari, khoya means crying, the place came to be known as Khokana. It was in the 13th century that they moved here.”

The main occupation of the people here is production of tori ko tel (mustard oil) and most of the tori oil we get comes from here.

During your jaunt here, you will come across ducks and goats (as already mentioned) but you will not see a single hen or cock.

Another Khokana resident, Krishna Bhagat Majarjan, explained, “In ancient times, seeing the sacrificing of animals all around during Dashain, Karunamaya, who was against violence, came and stayed at Rudrayani’s head on the day of Nawami. So, there are no sacrifices during Dashain here, in fact Dashain is not celebrated here.”

But there are other jatras that the people of Khokana celebrate like the Shikali jatra, Koan jatra and others.

Preserving their heritage is another aspect that the locals of Khokana are emphasising upon. The Khokana museum has displayed many items including traditional utensils and tools like dhiki, jato, phellu, pilla, traditional jewellery and clothes as well.

The view here is something to behold. But if you really want to get the best view, try to figure out the road that leads to the place with one tree standing all alone. You get to see Khokana all around from this height. It’s a must see.

How to reach

Khokana is easily accessible with buses plying from the Old Bus Park and/or Jawalakhel. Or if you have your own vehicle or bike, it is more convenient.

It will take you 45 minutes to an hour to reach Khokana from the city centre.

There are two routes: You could take a bus till Bhaisepatti bus stop and after an hour’s walk reach the small hillock that nestles the Khokana temple.

The other road is the one towards Bungamati. Instead of going straight, take a right turn this will take you right to the village. You can roam around the village and then walk towards the hillock.

It is better to take your own food as there aren’t many eateries. Visit the place in the morning or afternoon, but remember to return before it gets too dark as the place gets quite deserted.

Places of interest: Khokana museum, three storeyed Rudrayani Devi