KATHMANDU, OCTOBER 17
Renowned climbers – Dawa Yangzum Sherpa and Dawa Gyalje Sherpa – from Rolwaling have created history in mountaineering becoming the first sister and brother to successfully scale the world's 14 peaks above 8,000m.
The duo, both IFMGA guide, are the second siblings from Nepal to achieve the feat, according to officials. Two legendary brothers (Mingma Sherpa and Chhang Dawa Sherpa) from Seven Summit treks are the first siblings to conquer all 14 mountains over 8,000 m. Mingma completed his climbs between 2000 and 2011, and Dawa completed all 14 peaks between 2001 and 2013.
"Dawa Gyalje and Dawa Yangzum are the first brother-sister and the second Nepali siblings to complete all 14 8000ers," officials said, they are also the first set of IFMGA siblings to complete all 14 peaks.
According to Mingma Sherpa, Managing Director at Climbalaya Treks, Dawa Yangzum scaled her last 8000er Mt Shishapangma on October 9 becoming the first Nepali woman to join the coveted 8000ers club.
Managing Director at Imagine Nepal Treks Mingma G Sherpa confirmed that Dawa Gyalje scaled Shishapangma on October 4 completing all 14 peaks above 8,000m.
Dawa Yangzum is the youngest K2 summiteer and also the first Nepali woman to have climbed Annapurna I without O2. She also made the first ever ascent of Mt Langdung. "She is one of three Nepali women who first climbed Mt K2 (8,611m) under the Women for Change Expedition in 2014."
Being the professional guide, Dawa Yangzum also led the National Geographic scientific research team to Mt Everest 2019, 2022 and 2023. She also holds the speed climbing record (female) on Makalu in 20 hours.
Dawa Yangzum, who became the first woman to reach Manaslu true summit in autumn season, has received many awards including Kumar Khadga Bikram Sahasik Puruskar and Tenzing Hillary Award. Dawa Yangzum, who is also the second vice president of Nepal Mountaineering Association, had climbed Mt Everest in 2012 as her first 8,000er.
The first Asian woman IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide Dawa Yangzum has been mentoring girls keen on mountaineering by providing climbing gear and training. World-famous companies such as Rolex, The North Face, Lekki and Oakley Sunglasses have appointed her as a brand ambassador.
Likewise Dawa Gyalje's impressive summit records include two climbs of Annapurna I, two ascents of Broad Peak, one ascent of Cho Oyu, one ascent of Dhaulagiri, fifteen ascents of Mt Everest, two ascents of Gasherbrum-II, two ascents of K2, one ascent of Kanchenjunga, two ascents of Lhotse, one ascent of Makalu, five ascents of Manaslu, an ascent of Nanga Parbat last July, and finally, the ascent of Shishapangma.
DAWA GYALJE'S CLIMBING RECORD:
1.Everest 8848.86m. 12/5/2021
2.K2 8611m. 22/7/2022
3.Kanchenjunga 8586m. 7/May/ 2022
4.Lhotse 8516m. 14/May/2019
5.Makalu 8463m. 28/May/2022
6.Cho-Oyu 8200m. 02/Oct/2023
7.Dhaulagiri-I 8167m. 9/April/ 2022
8.Manaslu 8163m. 27/Sept/2021
9.Nanga Parbat 8126m. 2/July/2023
10.Annapurna-I 8091m. 16/Apr/2021
11.Gasherbrum-I 8068m. 4/Aug/2016
12.Broadpeak 8047m. 29/July/2022
13.Gasherbrum-II 8035m. 22/July/2024
14.Shishapangma 8027m. 04/Oct/2024
