Chilean climber Hernán Leal leads five-member team to summit newly opened peak in Taplejung
KATHMANDU, OCTOBER 30
A five-member team has made the first recorded ascent of Mt. Pathibhara (6,686m) in eastern Nepal's Taplejung district, pioneering a new route along the mountain's South-East Face through technically demanding Himalayan terrain.
The summit, reached at 1:50 p.m. on October 14, culminated a month-long effort led by Xtreme Climbers Treks & Expeditions Pvt. Ltd. The ascent stands as a milestone for Nepal's newly opened peaks, demonstrating the growing appeal of technical mountaineering beyond the 8,000-meter giants.
The expedition, which began on September 21, was led by Chilean climber Hernán David Leal Barrientos, supported by Nepali Sherpas Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa, Lhakpa Chhiring Sherpa, Kunga Gyaju Sherpa, and Pema Tasi Tamang. The team climbed via the previously unattempted South-East Route, overcoming unstable terrain, heavy rainfall, and complex mixed conditions of rock, snow, and ice.
A new peak on Nepal's climbing map
Mt. Pathibhara South-East Peak, officially opened for mountaineering in 2025 by the Government of Nepal, lies in the Kanchenjunga–Taplejung region, one of the country's most remote and least explored valleys. The peak, located at 27°48′50″ N and 88°11′12″ E, had remained unclimbed until this season.
The expedition's initial plan was to establish base camp at 5,200 meters. However, unstable moraine and monsoon-triggered landslides forced the team to set up a lower camp near Mt. Kumbhakarna (Jannu). The team's Base Camp (5,150m), established in a remote glacial basin, served as their operations and acclimatization point. On October 1, a traditional puja ceremony was held to seek blessings before moving toward higher elevations.
After a six-hour climb over unstable moraine, the climbers established High Camp (5,408m), followed by Camp I (5,747m) on a fractured glacier plateau exposed to crevasse and avalanche hazards. From there, Camp II (5,845m) was pitched beneath the steepest part of the face-a near-vertical section of ice and snow requiring sustained mixed climbing.
Despite severe weather and route ambiguities, the climbers maintained a hybrid alpine approach, completing nearly 90% of the climb in alpine style, fixing ropes only on the most technical sections.
True summit confirmed
The early phase of the expedition involved significant reconnaissance. The team initially identified a nearby summit labeled Pathibhara East (6,857m). After detailed topographic analysis during a snowstorm on October 4 and satellite-based coordinate verification, they confirmed the true Pathibhara South-East Peak (6,868m), near Pathibhara Main Peak (7,140m),-the objective listed in their climbing permit.
A second reconnaissance on October 8 finalized the route alignment. On October 14, after 11 continuous hours of technical climbing rated TD/7 in difficulty, the team reached the summit, recording a GPS elevation of 6,686 meters-slightly below the mapped height. They descended via the same route, securing ropes across crevassed and exposed sections for safety.
"This achievement defines courage, precision, and the relentless pursuit of exploration at the highest level," said Pemba Sherpa, Managing Director of Xtreme Climbers, calling the ascent a milestone for both Nepal and international alpinism. He added that the expedition reflects Nepal's growing role as a hub for technical climbs beyond the traditional 8,000-meter peaks.
Historic double for Hernán Leal
For expedition leader Hernán David Leal Barrientos, the Pathibhara ascent marked his second Himalayan first ascent in 2025. Earlier this year, on March 25, he became the first person to summit Mt. Sharphu IV (6,433m), also with Xtreme Climbers.
"With these two groundbreaking ascents, Hernán has etched his name in mountaineering history as the first climber to achieve two Himalayan first ascents in a single year," Pemba Sherpa said.
In a post on social media after the climb, Leal wrote: "No words can describe this moment. For the first time in history, a man reached the summit of Mount Pathibhara - and that man is me. As a Chilean and Latino, I feel deeply proud to raise our flag on the highest of the Himalayas. Today I confirm that the greatest mountains are the ones we carry inside."
The climber behind the feat
Born in Osorno, Chile, Hernán Leal is a renowned entrepreneur, motivational speaker, and mountaineer. He has summited Mount Everest twice, completed the Seven Summits Challenge, and is the founder and president of FastCo, a multinational operating across Chile, Peru, Colombia, and Mexico.
A graduate of Harvard Business School, Leal overcame a respiratory disability to pursue mountaineering and has since inspired thousands through his book The Mountains We Carry Inside (2018) and his Oscar-nominated short film The Boy and the Mountain.
Ten years after discovering his passion for climbing, Leal continues to merge exploration with education. Through his Dream Route Expedition, supported by Chile's Ministry of Education, he travels to remote regions promoting the message: "Dream Big."
A symbol for eastern Nepal
For Nepal, the Pathibhara ascent represents more than a climbing record. It symbolizes the emergence of the Kanchenjunga–Taplejung region as a new destination for technical mountaineering. The area, long overshadowed by Everest and Annapurna, offers pristine trails, fewer crowds, and immense potential for sustainable adventure tourism.
"This is not just about reaching the summit," Xtreme Climbers said in its statement. "It's about introducing the world to Nepal's unexplored mountains and creating opportunities for sustainable tourism in the east."
As the Pathibhara team safely descends to base camp, detailed summit data and route images are expected to be released soon -documenting what could become one of the landmark ascents in eastern Nepal.
