KATHMANDU, JUNE 8
French climber Alasdair McKenzie, along with a team of veteran Nepali Sherpas, has made history by summiting Cho Oyu from the Nepal side.
McKenzie, along with sherpas, Tenging Gyaljen, Gelje, and others, reached the peak at 8,188 meters above sea level at 8:35 PM (Nepal Time) via the S-SW Ridge (SST-Nepal Route), said Mingma Sherpa, who handled the entire expedition movement from the basecamp of Cho Oyu.
"The team started at approximately 2 AM from Camp IV and, after over 17 hours of continuous effort, reached the summit," said Mingma Sherpa, Chairman of Seven Summit Treks (SST). This feat followed a meticulously planned expedition that began in March and launched from Lukla in early May.
Although first climbed in 1954 by Dr. Herbert Tichy, Sepp Joechler, and Pasang Dawa Sherpa, Cho Oyu's standard route lies in Tibet. The Nepal side is known for its steep, vertical walls, making it one of the greatest modern mountaineering challenges. No successful climbs had been recorded from this side since 2009 (by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko – Route: South Face), underscoring the difficulty.
The expedition faced numerous obstacles. By May 30, McKenzie and the Sherpa team, including Mingteamba Sherpa, had fixed ropes up to 7,625 meters but had to return to base camp due to a shortage of ropes. On June 4, with preparations complete, the team began their final summit push from base camp.
Successful Summit Team:
Alasdair McKenzie (France) – Completed his 13th 8000er.
Gelje Sherpa (Nepal) – Leading the Fixing Team
Chhangba Sherpa (Nepal)
Tenging Gyaljen Sherpa (Nepal) – Leading the Fixing Team
Lakpa Temba Sherpa (Nepal)
Lakpa Tenji Sherpa (Nepal)
Ngima Ongda Sherpa (Nepal)
The team's dedication and hard work, along with the exceptional logistics and management provided by Seven Summit Treks were crucial in overcoming the formidable challenges posed by Cho Oyu's Nepal side. The Sherpas, the team members, the leader, and the climbing strategy deserve commendable praise for this achievement, said Chhang Dawa Sherpa, Expedition Director at Seven Summit Treks.
This expedition was also executed under the careful preparation and supervision of Mingma Sherpa, Chairman of SST, which is a phenomenal factor that led to this historic achievement mountaineering achievement and logistical expertise, drawing from a wealth of experience in arranging successful ascents on the world's highest peaks. As the first South Asian to climb all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters, Mingma's unparalleled mastery of high-altitude logistics, climbing strategy, and profound understanding of mountains is second to none, Chhang Dawa added.
This historic ascent not only marks a significant milestone in mountaineering but also opens new opportunities for climbers aspiring to tackle Cho Oyu from the Nepalese side. With this success, Cho Oyu is now more accessible from Nepal, ushering in a new era in Nepali mountaineering and inspiring future expeditions.
Seven Summit Treks, the organizer of this expedition, takes immense pride in this achievement and extends gratitude to all climbers, past and present, who contributed to this historic moment. Massive congratulations to the team, and we wish them a safe descent and a warm welcome upon their return, SST said.
