KATHMANDU, APRIL 29
The route through the Khumbu Icefall on Mt Everest has been opened for the Spring 2026 climbing season, though significant risks remain at a critical section, the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) said.
In an update issued on April 28, the SPCC said a joint team of eight Icefall Doctors and 16 mountain guides returned safely to Base Camp after opening the route up to the Nuptse face.
The route-fixing team had begun work on March 16 and secured passage up to the rockfall point by April 8, but progress was obstructed by a large unstable serac. Despite partial collapse, the remaining ice mass continues to pose a serious danger, according to the committee.
Following joint assessments with the Department of Tourism and the Expedition Operators Association of Nepal, including aerial and on-site inspections, the team ruled out alternative routes due to safety concerns. A vertical route above the serac was deemed too dangerous, while no safer path could be identified through the centre of the section.
With limited time before the climbing window, the team eventually opened the route below the serac. The ice formation, measuring about 55 metres in length, 28 metres in height and 37 metres in breadth, has multiple cracks and could collapse at any time, SPCC warned.
The committee has urged climbers and expedition operators to exercise extreme caution beyond the rockfall point, advising quick movement, minimal load carrying, and strict safety measures while crossing ladders. Currently, eight ladders have been installed across three sections, with more likely to be added as crevasses widen.
"Although the route is now open, it is not safe at the rockfall point," the SPCC stated, adding that continuous monitoring will be carried out throughout the season.
Meanwhile, the Nepal Mountaineering Association welcomed the development, stating that the opening of the Khumbu Icefall route signals the start of this year's Everest climbing season.
The DoT also extended heartfelt appreciation to the dedicated Icefall Doctors, SPCC EOA team for opening the Khumbu Icefall route for Spring 2026. "As climbers navigate the route, utmost caution is urged, particularly in the serac-affected section. Wishing all a safe ascent," it noted.