KATHMANDU, JULY 31
Search-and-rescue operations intensified on Friday for renowned Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja "Nimsdai" and nine other climbers who went missing after a massive avalanche struck Pakistan's 8,047-metre Broad Peak during a summit push on Thursday.
According to the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP), the avalanche hit the international expedition around midday as the team was climbing from Camp II to Camp III. The 10-member team comprised five Nepali climbers led by Purja, two Pakistani high-altitude guides, and climbers from Oman, China and the United States. Initial reports had listed one climber as Russian-American.
The ACP said all members of the expedition lost communication following the avalanche. It added that President Major General Irfan Arshad and senior club officials were coordinating with Pakistan's government and relevant agencies to mobilise helicopters and all available rescue resources, subject to weather and operational conditions.
Expedition officials said the missing include three climbers from Seven Summit Treks, three from Elite Exped, two from Imagine Nepal Treks and two Pakistani guides.
Based on the latest reports, the following climbers have been reported missing following an avalanche on Broad Peak (8,047 m) in Pakistan:
- Pur Bahadur Gurung ("Yukta") – Nepal
- Kili Pemba Sherpa – Nepal
- Nima Sherpa – Nepal
- Nawang Thindu Sherpa – Nepal
- Gyalu Sherpa – Nepal
- Nirmal "Nims Dai" Purja – Nepal
- Sohail Sakhi – Pakistan
- Mallory Geis – United States
- Nadhira Al Harthy – Oman
- Wang Zhong – China
Meanwhile, Mingma Gyabu Sherpa, co-owner of Elite Exped, reported that Purja's GPS tracker has continued to show movement since the avalanche, raising cautious hope among rescuers.
"Nims Purja's GPS tracker still appears to be showing movement. The recorded location has continued to change after the avalanche, though Purja remains missing," Mingma Gyabu was quoted as saying.
The incident comes just days after another major milestone in Purja's climbing career. On July 22, he summited Pakistan's Gasherbrum II, marking his 57th successful ascent of an 8,000-metre peak, including 29 ascents completed without supplemental oxygen.
With the Gasherbrum II ascent, Purja moved within one peak of completing his ambitious Hat-Trick Project-climbing all 14 of the world's 8,000-metre mountains three times while also completing the Seven Summits three times. According to Elite Exped, only Cho Oyu remains to complete the feat.
Nepal's Minister for Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation Khadak Raj Paudel said the government was closely monitoring the situation.
"Deeply concerned by the reports of an avalanche and the loss of contact with Nirmal Purja 'Nims Dai' and fellow Nepali climbers in Pakistan. We are in regular contact with the Pakistani authorities and receiving updates on the situation. Our thoughts are with the climbers and their families. We remain hopeful for their safe return," the minister said in a social media post.
The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) also expressed solidarity with the climbers and rescuers.
In a statement issued by NMA President Fur Gelje Sherpa, the association said it was "deeply concerned" and was praying for the safety of all Nepali climbers on the mountain.
"We sincerely pray for the safe return of every climber and extend our best wishes for the swift and successful rescue of those who are currently facing difficulties. Our thoughts are with the climbers, their families, expedition teams and all rescue personnel working tirelessly under challenging conditions," Fur Gelje Sherpa said.
Widely regarded as one of the world's foremost high-altitude climbers, Purja gained global recognition in 2019 after climbing all 14 of the world's 8,000-metre peaks in just over six months, setting a then world record. He began his mountaineering career in 2012 after deciding to climb Mount Everest during a trek to Everest Base Camp.
Search operations were continuing at the time of reporting, with rescue flights dependent on weather conditions in the Karakoram.
