Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja scales Nanga Parbat to complete his seventh 8000er

KATHMANDU: Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja, who is on his mission to complete all 14 peaks above 8,000m in just seven months, today announced that he has successfully climbed the world’s ninth highest mountain in the westernmost part of the Himalayan range.

After arriving at the base camp, the former UK Special Forces member told The Himalayan Times that he along with five other climbers stood atop Nanga Parbat, seventh of 14 mountains, on July 3 by opening a climbing route to the summit of the 8,126-metre peak in Pakistan.

The 35-year-old climber also said that Nanga Parbat marked his seventh eight-thousander in less than three months since he first scaled Mt Annapurna on April 23.

“Mingma David Sherpa, Lakpa dendi Sherpa, Walung Dorje Sherpa, Galjen Sherpa and Stefi Troguet from Andorra were the other members of my team to stand atop the mountain,” he said. The ‘Project Possible’ team opened the climbing route from Camp III to the summit point of Nanga Parbat, the climber added.

Stefi Troguet has also become the first person from Andorra to climb Mt Nanga Parbat, according to Purja. MIngma David Sherpa, who has already climbed Mt Everest for six times, also completed his 10th eight-thousander by scaling Nanga Parbat this season. Sherpa said that he would also attempt to climb four other peaks - Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II and Mt Sishapangma – in the next couple of months to complete all 14 peaks above 8,000 m.

“Spanish climber Sergi Mingote opened a route covering nearly 150 m above Camp II while rest of the section below Camp III was fixed by Georgian climbers Archil Badriashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze,” he said, adding that the Project Possible team opened the climbing route from Camp III to the summit point. Our success also proves that Nepali climbers could take a leading role in the field of mountain climbing.” In the last spring season, the team had fixed the climbing routes on Mt Annapurna and Mt Dhaulagiri while Purja-led team also carried out rescue missions in the death zone of Mt Annapurna and Mt Kanchenjunga.

“We were also told that if project possible team wasn’t there then no summit was possible,” Purja, a permanent resident of Myagdi, said, adding that the team’s base camp was managed by renowned Pakistani climber Ali Sadpara.

Project Possible team would also like to congratulate French climbers Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein who attempted the mountain in alpine style. “Though Duperier didn’t make it to the summit point, Langenstein successfully made a record ski descent from the top of the mountain,” he said, adding that they had only used the ropes in the kinshofer wall.

During the second phase of his mission, Nanga Parbat was the first peak in his list of five mountains while the owner of Elite Himalayan Adventure Pvt Ltd aims to complete at least four more mountains in the next couple of weeks. Purja plans complete the second phase by August 1. “The team will soon head for other mountains including K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II,” Purja, who has spent 16 years in the British Army, said.

The Ex UK Special Forces member has already succeeded in the first phase of his ambition to speed climb the world’s 14 highest mountains in just seven months while he stood atop six mountains including Mt Everest in just over four weeks in the last spring season.

According to the Project Possible, his final attempt will begin in September with plans to climb the remaining three peaks – Mt Manaslu, Mt Cho Oyu and Mt Sishapangma - by this November.


Nanga Parbat – July 03

Mt Makalu – May 24

Mt Everest – May 22

Mt Lhotse – May 22

Mt Kanchenjunga – May 15

Mt Dhaulagiri – May 12

Mt Annapurna – April 23