KATHMANDU, APRIL 19
Nepal's Spring 2026 climbing season has opened with a flurry of successful ascents across three eight-thousanders in a single weekend, with teams reaching the summits of Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Makalu between April 17 and 18, signalling a strong start to what is shaping up to be an active season on the high peaks.
Annapurna
Annapurna (8,091m) recorded the season's first eight-thousander summit on the morning of April 18, when a team from 14 Peaks Expedition placed five international climbers and 11 Nepali guides on top of the world's tenth-highest peak. The international summiteers were Vladimir Kotlyar and Vladimir Belkovich of Russia, Alexander Bachmann of Germany, Mario Fernando Villagrán Avendaño of Ecuador, and Arno Ter-Saakovs of Latvia. The 11-member Sherpa guide team was led by Lakpa Sherpa (Makalu Lakpa) of Makalu-1, Sankhuwasabha.
"This remarkable achievement reflects true teamwork, resilience, and the strength of the Himalayan spirit," the expedition team said.
Later the same day, Seven Summit Treks (SST) added another successful ascent on the peak, with a five-member international team and seven Nepali guides reaching the summit under favourable conditions. The SST team had departed base camp on April 14, pushing through deep snow before a fixing team opened the final route to the top.
The summiteers were Charles Page of Canada, Valeriy Babanov, Vladimir Afanasyev and Yuri Kruglov of Russia, and Israfli Ashurli of Azerbaijan, supported by guides Lakpa Sherpa, Chhewang Sherpa, Dawa Nurbu Sherpa, Pasang Dukpa Sherpa, Chhangba Sherpa, Taraman Tamang and Pasang Sherpa.
"This achievement reflects the hard work, teamwork, and determination of every climber and Sherpa on the team," said Chhang Dawa Sherpa, founder of Seven Summit Treks.
A five-member team from AltiPro Adventures also reached the Annapurna summit on April 18, battling fierce winds and demanding terrain on the final push. The team comprised Van Khai Nguyen, Manisha Rishi Gaind, Mingma Dorchi Sherpa (Saila), Lakpa Temba Sherpa and Karma Gyaljen Sherpa. Multiple successful ascents were recorded on the peak across the day, making Annapurna the most climbed eight-thousander of the opening weekend.
Dhaulagiri
On Dhaulagiri (8,167m), the world's seventh-highest peak, the season's first summit went to an Imagine Nepal team of nine climbers on April 17, after one of the more arduous approaches of the season.
Severe storms and ten days of blizzards had destroyed fixed ropes and supplies on the mountain, but the team seized a brief weather window to push from Camp 2 to Camp 3 before making their final bid, with all nine members topping out between 11:40 AM and 2:00 PM Nepal Time.
The summit team comprised Liu Hong, Liu Yishi and Wang Zhong of China, Christine Vogondy of Switzerland, and Nepali guides Fur Gyalgen Sherpa, Pasang Namgel Sherpa, Kili Pemba Sherpa, Ngima Nuru Sherpa and Pema Chirri Sherpa.
The following day, Pioneer Adventures placed a 17-member team on the summit. The international summiteers represented six countries: Iryna Halai and Valentyn Sypavin of Ukraine, Kyoko Iwata of Japan, Eichul Chung of South Korea, Vladimir-Radu Falcutescu of Romania, and Bhagwan Bhikoba Chawale, Shivaji Laxman Nanware and Dwarka Vishwanath Dokhe of India. The Nepali guide team comprised Sanu Sherpa, Lakpa Ongjuk Sherpa, Nima Ungdi Sherpa, Dandu Sherpa, Dawa Chhring, Ang Gelu Sherpa, Ang Dawa Sherpa, Nikhil Sherpa and Lakpa (Lankee) Sherpa.
"Hats off to our achievers," said Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, Chairman of Pioneer Adventures. "Their dedication and hard work were truly commendable."
Makalu
On Makalu (8,485m), the world's fifth-highest peak, Seven Summit Treks' six-member rope-fixing team reached the summit at 5:40 PM on April 18, opening the route for the remainder of the season. The fixing team comprised Dawa Sherpa (Speed Dawa), Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Pema Chhumbi Sherpa, Mohan Singh Tamang, Phurbu Kusang Sherpa and Phudorchi Sherpa.
SST has been leading rope-fixing operations on Makalu for several years, and the peak holds special significance for the company, whose directors hail from the Makalu region.
With Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Makalu all recording their first summits of the season within 48 hours, attention in the Spring 2026 season now turns to Everest, Lhotse and Kanchenjunga, where expeditions are currently in various stages of acclimatisation and preparation ahead of the main summit window expected in May.
