KATHMANDU, SEPTEMBER 22
Nepal's autumn mountaineering season has been disrupted by persistent rain and snowfall, with the 2026 Manaslu climbing season likely closed while teams on Dhaulagiri have retreated to base camp amid unstable weather.
Seven Summit Treks expedition director Chhang Dawa Sherpa said his company had decided to close its Manaslu season after unpredictable weather forced climbers and Sherpas to return from higher camps. Several other major expedition operators have also called off their summit attempts and begun closing their camps. "When it comes to the technical challenges of an expedition, we prepare, adapt, and find a way to tackle them. But there is one thing we can never overcome snowfall, wind, and mountain conditions are beyond our control," Chhang Dawa added.
"For the safety of everyone on the mountain, we have made the decision to officially close the Manaslu 2026 season. It is never an easy decision, but every successful expedition begins and ends with one responsibility: bringing everyone home safely," he wrote.
"The mountains have their own timeline, and right now, Manaslu is asking us to wait," Seven Summit Treks said in an earlier base camp update, adding that teams had returned to base camp after conditions changed during summit attempts.
Persistent snowfall has made conditions increasingly difficult in the Manaslu region. Local residents in Samagaun, near the 8,163-metre mountain, reported continuous rain for around two weeks, with snow accumulating to about three feet at base camp and significantly more at higher camps. Karma Chhewang Lama, ward chair of Chumanubri Rural Municipality–1, Samagaun, near Manaslu, said climbers are returning home after two weeks of waiting without favourable weather. Continuous rain in the Manaslu region has brought about five feet of snow nearby.
"This had never happened before. I don't know what has happened - it is raining and snowing," Lama said. "The government has asked people to stay alert from the 8th to the 12th, so climbers are returning one after another." He said that even if the monsoon improves, there is no possibility of returning for climbing this season.
According to the Department of Tourism, 493 climbers from 41 expedition teams had obtained permits to climb Manaslu this autumn, including 366 men and 127 women. The mountain generated $1.479 million in climbing royalty, equivalent to about Rs 224.81 million.
On Dhaulagiri, however, the expedition season has been paused rather than cancelled.
Climbing teams have retreated to base camp because of heavy snowfall and unstable weather, while the summit route has yet to open this season. Teams have so far reached only Camp II while working on rope fixing and acclimatisation.
Lakpa Sherpa, also known as Makalu Lakpa with 14 Peaks Expedition, said the weather forecast for the coming days remained difficult and that the developing cyclone in the Bay of Bengal was expected to affect the region. The route-fixing and climbing teams have returned to base camp, while clients have descended towards Pokhara and Jomsom temporarily.
He said the expedition could resume if weather conditions improve.
"We are simply taking a pause and allowing the mountain and weather conditions to settle," Sherpa said in a Facebook post.
The Department of Tourism has issued permits to four teams comprising 34 foreign climbers for Dhaulagiri this autumn.
The disruption has come during what had been a busy autumn climbing season. The Department of Tourism's royalty data shows 579 climbers on 11 peaks, with Manaslu accounting for 493 of them.
For expedition operators, however, the immediate priority is no longer summit success.
"The mountain will always be there," Sherpa said. "Our priority is to return when the conditions are safe for our Sherpas, climbing teams and clients."
