KATHMANDU, JUNE 16

Three Nepali climbers have successfully made the first ascent of Patrasi Peak, situated in the remote region of Jumla in far-western Nepal.

Vinayak Jaya Malla, Pasang Rinzee Sherpa, and Pasang Kami Sherpa scaled the 6,450-meter peak on June 12.

Under the "Light and Fast" project, the trio embarked on their expedition on June 3, starting their journey from Kathmandu. They took a flight to Nepalgunj the same day and then traveled to Jumla before reaching the base camp of Patrasi Peak.

The ascent began on June 10, with the climbers setting their first camp at 5,700 meters. On June 11, they established their second camp at 6,000 meters. The following day, they reached the summit and returned to their second camp before descending to the base camp on the fourth day, completing their round-trip in just four days.

"The expedition faced numerous challenges, including rough weather, heavy snowfall, and loose rocks," Malla said while adding that despite these obstacles, they persevered, demonstrating their skill and resilience on this untapped mountain.

"The climb was tough and technical, different from the fixed rope climbing we are used to. This kind of technical climbing brings the real joy of mountaineering," Malla said.

Taking to social media, the trio shared, "Carrying only essential gear, we embarked on this expedition with three main objectives: to make the first ascent of Patrasi, to promote alpinism and sustainable mountaineering in our home country, and to highlight the beauty of far-west Nepal."

The expedition was notable for being the first team from Nepal to receive a grant from the prestigious Mount Everest Foundation (MEF), based in the UK. The MEF grant, which was previously available only to climbers from the UK and the Netherlands, has been open to Nepali climbers since 2023. Malla, an IFMGA certified mountain guide, along with Rinzee and Kami, both IFMGA aspirant guides, applied for and were awarded the grant, which facilitated their ambitious ascent.

Since its inception in 1955, the MEF has provided funds to over 2,000 expeditions in remote locations and to scientists researching high-altitude medicine, glaciology and climate change.

All three climbers have extensive experience of mountaineering both in Nepal and abroad. Vinayak Jaya Malla has summited Everest 4 times and led successful expeditions on Lhotse, Manaslu, and Ama Dablam. He is also a Mountain Leader Instructor, Examiner, and trained in Helicopter Long Line Rescue.

Pasang Kami Sherpa, with 10 Everest summits, and Pasang Rinzee Sherpa, with 2 Everest summits, are highly experienced guides.

"We have known each other for a long time, so when the opportunity arose to experience something different, we took it," Malla said.

The climbers, who have extensive experience on peaks such as Everest, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse, Manaslu, and Ama Dablam, sought a different kind of adventure with Patrasi Peak. They aimed to experience the true essence of Nepal, away from the commercialized and tourist-heavy regions like Khumbu. Malla highlighted the thrill of climbing in a remote area without external disturbances, noting the unique experience of being out of cellular connectivity for eight days.

He also added that western Nepal offers real possibilities for sustainable mountain climbing, tourism, and livelihood due to its remote and untouched peaks.

Following this successful expedition, Malla is scheduled to travel to China to train mountain aspirants Under IFMGA program, continuing his dedication to mountaineering and training while Pasang Kami Sherpa and Pasang Rinzee Sherpa will continue their guide services in Nepal and abroad.