KATHMANDU, OCTOBER 29

Two renowned international mountain guides have successfully scaled a technical mountain in Langtang region making the first successful ascent of 6,567-metre peak from the East Face route in an alpine style.

Joshua Jarrin from the United States and Oswaldo (Ossy) Freire from Ecuador stood atop the summit of Dhagpache peak at around 6:10 pm on October 28.

'The IFMGA guides made it to the top of Dhagpache in an alpine style,' Tashi Lakpa Sherpa, managing director at 14 Peaks Expedition, confirmed.

According to Sherpa, the team left for Langtang region to begin their climbing activities on October 24. 'It was a very technical climb in which it took almost 30 hours to achieve this incredible feat,' Ossy told THT over phone while returning from the summit point. 'It is first known ascent of Dhahpache,' he said.

The two-member team under the leadership of Ossy made the first successful ascent of Dhagpache from the East Face route, the Department of Tourism said.

'We have named the route 'Between fairies and unicorns' and completed it in 29 hrs and 19 mins,' Ossy told THT. According to him, the climbing grades: ED, M4+ and WI5+ 90°.

Ossy, 50, who was born and raised in Ecuador, has already made many notable climbs including the first traverse of all the summits of El Altar, two expeditions to the South Face of Aconcagua, the Eastern Face of Huayna Potosi in Bolivia and a difficult route up Peak Lenin. He has succeeded in reaching the summit of Manaslu and Everest, both without oxygen.

Born and raised in Ecuador, Joshua, 37, has also summited peaks in the Andes, Patagonia, the Alps, the Dolomites, the Himalayas and Tien Shan mountains; most notably: Mt Everest, Pumori Peak in Nepal, the South face of Aconcagua in Argentina, and Khan Tengri in Kyrgyzstan. He is one of the few climbers who have done two ascents of the south face of Aconcagua (Argentina).

'The team will head towards Ganchenpo (6,378 m) in a day or two along with three other Sherpa guides,' Tashi Lakpa said. The duo obtained permits from the DoT for Ganchenpo and Dhagpache in the autumn season.