KATHMANDU, JANUARY 12 On January 6, 2026, at 10:00 pm, Nepali mountaineer and IFMGA-certified guide Abiral Rai stood atop Mount Vinson (4,892m), the highest peak in Antarctica, marking a historic first for the Kirat Rai (Thulung Rai) community. With the ascent, Rai became the first person from the Rai community to reach the summit of the Antarctic continent, a milestone of both national and cultural significance. Mount Vinson is among the world's most remote and logistically demanding peaks, with only around 1,200 climbers worldwide having successfully reached its summit. The number of Nepali climbers on Vinson remains limited, making Rai's achievement particularly notable in Nepal's mountaineering history.

Rai was part of a Nepali-guided expedition led by veteran mountaineer Jangbu Sherpa, alongside Mingma Sherpa and Hari Budha Magar. The Vinson ascent was also historic for another reason: it marked the completion of the Seven Summits by Hari Budha Magar, who became the world's first double above-knee amputee to scale the highest peaks on all seven continents. According to the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA), the January 6 ascent was Jangbu Sherpa's 18th successful climb of Mt Vinson, while it was Rai's first. The association noted that the guide team was supporting Magar's Seven Summits mission, which has drawn global attention for redefining perceptions of disability in high-altitude mountaineering.

For Rai, Vinson represents more than a single summit. He is also the first climber from the Rai community to scale Aconcagua (6,960m) in South America in 2025 and Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m) in Oceania. With successful ascents in Asia, Oceania, South America and now Antarctica, Rai has completed four of the Seven Summits and is steadily progressing toward the full continental challenge. Certified as an IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide in 2019, Rai's journey in the mountains began at the grassroots level-as a porter. Over the years, he has guided hundreds of clients on major Himalayan peaks, including Everest, Lhotse and Manaslu, as well as on international expeditions. His rise from porter to elite international guide is often cited as a reflection of discipline, technical mastery and leadership.

In a social media post after the climb, Rai described the Vinson ascent as a proud moment for both the Rai community and Nepal, noting that seven Nepali climbers reached the summit on the same day. 'It was an unforgettable and historic day for Nepal in Antarctica,' he wrote, thanking his teammates and supporters. As he continues his Seven Summits pursuit, Abiral Rai's achievements are increasingly seen as a source of inspiration for young Nepalis aspiring to careers in mountaineering. By carrying the identity of the Rai community to some of the world's highest and most remote mountains, he has added a distinct chapter to Nepal's rich climbing legacy-one defined not only by summits, but by representation, perseverance and pride.