Lifestyle

IFMGA guide Jyamchang Bhote summits Vinson Massif for 15th time

By Sandeep Sen

Jyamchang bhote

KATHMANDU, JANUARY 13 Renowned Nepali mountaineer and IFMGA-certified guide Jyamchang Bhote has successfully scaled Vinson Massif (4,892m) in Antarctica for a record 15th time, further strengthening his reputation as one of Nepal's most experienced polar and high-altitude guides. The 44-year-old mountaineer from Sankhuwasabha district now joins an elite group of climbers with the most ascents of the 4,892-meter Antarctic giant, further cementing his status as one of Nepal's most accomplished international guides. Bhote reached the summit on January 6, adding another milestone to his long association with Antarctica, where he has been guiding expeditions regularly since 2019. His 15 ascents place him among a small global group of climbers with the highest number of successful climbs of the continent's tallest peak. Beyond summit ascents, Bhote is also known for guiding specialized Antarctic journeys, including expeditions to the South Pole and the remote Emperor Penguin Colony at Gould Bay-a rare assignment undertaken by only a handful of Nepali guides. The Gould Bay camp offers close observation of emperor penguins from a uniquely isolated polar base. 'Very few Nepali guides have guided expeditions to the Emperor Penguin Colony,' Bhote noted, referring to the remote camp that offers rare close-up observation opportunities of emperor penguins from a comfortable base. Born on April 13, 1981, in the remote village of Farang in Bhotkhola, Bhote has been guiding in the mountains since 1999. He has an extensive Himalayan record, including nine ascents of Mount Everest. During a recent Everest expedition, he carried an environmentally themed flag to raise awareness about climate action, forest conservation, and environmental protection. An IFMGA/UIAGM-certified guide since 2009, Bhote has guided and instructed for nearly three decades. He serves as a senior instructor with the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and the Nepal Mountaineering Instructor Association (NMIA), leading training programmes ranging from introductory rock climbing to advanced professional guide courses. Bhote has also played key roles in mountaineering institutions, including as vice-president of the Himalaya Bhote Society, treasurer of the Sankhuwasabha Everest Climbers Association Nepal (SECAN), and a former executive board member of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA). He is a life member of the US Nepal Climbers Association and an associate member of the Everest Summiteers Association. 'The mountains never get old,' he says. 'Every climb is different, every team is unique. For me, guiding is not just a profession-it's a lifelong journey.' With his latest Antarctic achievement, Jyamchang Bhote continues to elevate Nepal's reputation in global mountaineering while mentoring the next generation of climbers in the world's most challenging landscapes.