The tribal trail
Arup Das
Explore the rich art and culture of the last frontiers of tribal India in Bastar.
For tourists, it all comes in one big, beautiful package — adventure tourism, water sports and spiritual pilgrimages. Verdant forests let you get up close with rare wildlife, and beautiful waterfalls, exquisitely carved temples and ancient monuments keep you enthralled. The mystical land of Bastar in the central Indian state of Chhattisgarh — so named for the 36 forts (garhs) here — offers the discerning traveller a spectacular holiday. Bastar is predominantly a forest area and home to the tribes of Maria, Muria and Bhatra, each having their own indigenous culture, deities, dialect and customs. Interestingly, red ants, squirrels and rats are some of the delicacies they enjoy, alongwith liquor brewed from huwa (a tree). Bastar has through the years developed its own dance styles, cuisine and music. Pandwani, the musical narration of the epic Mahabharata, Raut Nacha (folk dance of cowherds), the Panthi and Soowa dance styles are very popular in the region.
Take your shopping bag
The compulsive shopper would find this an exciting place because you get some of the most exotic handicrafts in wood carvings, bell metal, terracotta and woven textiles — all of which is a fusion of the antique and the contemporary. The Bastar tribes excel in wood and bamboo craft, using the finest teak and white wood to make idols, figures, wall panels and furniture. Also available are animal figures like tigers, elephants, horses, table lamps, etc, made from terracotta.
A feast for the eyes
Take time off shoping to visit some of the most scenic spots in the country. The Chitrakot waterfall is Asia’s largest waterfall (widthwise). With a height of 96.32 feet, this horseshoe-shaped fall turns into a roaring monster during the rains. Remember to check out an ancient Shiv-Paravati temple, too. The Kanger Valley National Park is a paradise for nature lovers, boasting of a wide range of flora and fauna (leopards, bears, boars, jackals). Try spotting the endangered Wild Buffalo (Bubalis bubalis) and also the endangered Hill Myna (Graculis religiosa peninsularis) which have VIP status as they have been declared the state’s animal and bird. The valley is also reputed for its scenic beauty, water bodies and ancient caves. The biggest tourist attractions are the Tiratgarh waterfalls, Kutumsar, Kailash and Dandak caves, known for their awesome stalagmite and stalactite formations.
A big dose of culture
Danteshwari is the former ruler’s reigning deity who the tribal people worship. They also worship gods, goddesses and spirits inspired by Mother Nature in her countless forms. In India, the festival of Dussehra mostly celebrates the return of Lord Ram to his kingdom in Ayodhya, but in Bastar it focuses on goddess Danteshwari, the primary deity. The goddess’ main temple is in Jagdalpur, the headquarters of Bastar. It’s worth seeing the temple during Dusshera, all decorated with colourful lamps, and the traditional rituals of the festival being followed by the local people enthusiastically. This is one of the last frontiers of tribal India. It’s a great getaway, especially with its unique cultural and ecological identity.
How to get there
Jagdalpur, the district headquarters of Bastar district, is 300 km from the state capital Raipur in the north. There are excellent roads linking Bastar which pass through lush forests. The nearest airport is Raipur where daily connectivity to major cities in the country is easily available.