The Guardian

Athens

Greeks are feeling a little jaded about their starring moment in history. Endless rumours about power-hungry Athenians selling off the Olympic brand to the biggest sponsors and spending millions on projects that most visitors will never enjoy has cast a cloud over the run up to the games.

There’s an easy remedy. Anyone requiring a quick slug of Greece’s rich sporting heritage only need make a detour to the temple of Zeus in the western Peloponnese. A three-hour drive from the capital is Olympia, the spiritual home of the games.

Until now, this sleepy town was content to combine tourism with farming, its main source of income coming from the daily convoy of tour buses that trundle down the high street, en route to the archaeological site. Souvenir hunters are obliged to trawl this kilometre-long strip of shops, snack bars and cafes, most of them named after gods or philosophers. (Shouldn’t it be Hermes running the Internet cafe, instead of Praxiteles?)

Last year, the local mayor decided to take a leaf out of Athens’ book and seized his chance to give Olympia a facelift. So far, government funding to the tune of Euros 45 million has been poured into a dozen building projects.

Improvements include a new ring road to divert cars and lorries away from the congested town centre. A new path and footbridge will allow visitors to stroll into the town for shopping and eating, along planned riverside paths aiming at providing a quiet place to contemplate history.

A further Euros 15 million is being spent on relocating the inadequate (and scruffy) parking lot away from the archaeological site. But will this ambitious scheme be ready in time for the games in the second week of August?

Archaelogical sites: Within walking distance of the main drag is the entrance to the ruins (entrance Euros 6). The best way to tackle them is to arrive early in order to avoid the heat, armed with the ‘Complete Guide to Olympia’.

It’s immediately apparent why this spot was chosen as a religious centre around the third millennia BC. To one side are densely wooded slopes; on the other is the river Alfios, hemmed by orchard and olive groves.

The games began in 776BC in honour of Zeus. Not far from the temple of Hera is a wild olive tree where, it is said, the first branch was plucked to create the victor’s wreath as he (women were not permitted to compete) emerged from the stadium via the crypt. My guide said, “the torch lighting ceremony (scheduled for March 25) will be the highlight at this spot. We expect a crowd of 1,00,000.”

The museums: The new museum (currently under major renovation) at the archaeological site will house a revamped collection of ancient statues and pediments from temples, some of which have never previously been exhibited. The old museum — in a neoclassical edifice and also undergoing renovations — is halfway between the main street and the site; the Museum of the Games is one block behind the main street and concentrates on the modern sports and previous host cities.