Before the First Step...
I am a physician by profession, and my wife, who is also a physician, shares many of my interests. One of our greatest passions is traveling and trekking together. Ten years after completing the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) trek in July 2016, we decided to embark on another Himalayan adventure: the trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC).
Unlike our previous trek, which included a few relatives, this time our older daughter, Aanya, was old enough and eager to join us. We were delighted to have her accompany us. Unfortunately, about three weeks before our planned departure, she became ill, required surgery, and needed several days to recover. For a while, we questioned whether the trip would even be possible. Despite this setback, Aanya remained determined to come, and her enthusiasm encouraged us to continue with our plans.
Many friends and family members advised us against trekking during the monsoon season because of the unpredictable weather, difficulty walking in rain and potential risk from landslides etc. We appreciated their concerns but ultimately chose to follow our hearts.
As soon as we arrived in Kathmandu, we began our preparations. With the invaluable guidance of our good friend Pasang Geljen Sherpa, an avid skier and Everest climber, and the managing director of a reputed trekking company, we arranged all the necessary gear, airline tickets, an experienced guide, and a porter.
The Journey Begins...
Flights from Kathmandu to Lukla are notorious for delays and cancellations, but we were fortunate. We boarded after only a short delay, and the half an hour Twin Otter flight weaving through the towering Himalayas was breathtaking.
The landing at Lukla Airport, often regarded as one of the world's most challenging airports because of its dramatic topography, was an exhilarating experience. This reputation of the airport comes from the unique geography (high altitude, short and steep runway, mountain on one side and cliff on the other side) and rapidly changing weather conditions.
The airport was built in 1964 at the initiative of Sir Edmund Hillary, who, together with Tenzing Norgay, first summited Mount Everest on May 29, 1953. Its original purpose was to transport construction materials for Kunde Hospital and schools throughout the Khumbu region.
At Lukla, we were welcomed by our guide, Mr. Dawa Sherpa and our porter, Mr. Chitra Gurung. After a brief stop for tea at Lukla, which is around 2,800 meters high (Kathmandu valley is about 1,400 meters for reference), we began our trek and reached our destination for the day, Monjo, which is located at about the same altitude as Lukla. We also enjoyed spectacular views of Kusum Kanguru and Kongde Ri rising to the sky on our way. The trail from Lukla to Monjo is mostly flat and stone paved and considered the easiest section in EBC. We encountered pine and rhododendrons lining the trail and were greeted by several friendly dogs in nearly every village we passed through. We found ourselves walking close to DudhKoshi river, crossing it many times on suspension bridges. The sound of the roaring river combined with lush green mountains and picturesque little villages made the walk very enjoyable.
The following morning, we were greeted by magnificent views of Mt. Thamserku (6,608 meters) from the northeast before continuing towards Namche Bazaar.
After crossing the DudhKoshi river once again, via Hillary Suspension Bridge, an iconic crossing, where the old bridge is still visible below, we enjoyed beautiful views of the confluence where BhoteKoshi joins DudhKoshi river. After this, a long steep ascent for almost two hours finally brought us to Namche.
Nestled high in the mountains at an altitude of about 3,400 meters, Namche is a charming Sherpa town rich in culture and traditions. Towering above the town, on the northwest side is the impressive massif of Khumbila, considered sacred guardian deity of Khumbu region by the Sherpa people. For the same reason, it has never been officially climbed.
One of Aanya's favorite experiences was visiting the nearby dog shelter, home to about 35 rescued stray dogs from Namche. The caretaker kindly allowed her to pet several of them and even take a few dogs for a short walk, making it a memorable highlight of her trip.
Through the Heart of Khumbu...
The next day, we trekked towards Tengboche, where we paid our respects at the famous Tengboche Monastery before continuing to Pangboche, situated at an altitude of about 3,900 meters.
We spent the night there and awoke the following morning to the magnificent views of Ama Dablam (6,812 meters), one of the most beautiful mountains in the Himalayas.
At Pangboche, we stayed at a lodge run by an inspiring woman who had once finished third among women in the annual Tenzing-Hillary Everest Marathon, a race that descends from Everest Base Camp to Namche Bazaar and is regarded as the highest marathon in the world. Her husband was an accomplished mountaineer who had successfully climbed several Himalayan peaks. Listening to their stories added another special dimension to our journey.
From Pangboche, we continued to Pheriche. Pheriche, situated in a broad valley beside the Khumbu River, served as another acclimatization stop at around 4,300 meters of altitude. We attempted to hike the nearby Nangkartshang Peak, which is about 5,000 meters at the top. After ascending about 500 meters from Pheriche, we decided to turn back because Aanya found the climb increasingly difficult. Although we did not reach the summit, the panoramic views were spectacular. Across the valley, we could see the beautiful village of Dingboche in the Imja Valley, beside the Imja river.
Higher into the Himalayas...
The following morning, we resumed our trek towards Thukla. The trail briefly offered tantalizing views of the surrounding mountains, including Taboche and Cholatse massif to the west, before the clouds swallowed them all.
At Thukla Pass, we paused at the memorials dedicated to climbers who had lost their lives on Everest, including the legendary Babu Chiri Sherpa, holder of multiple mountaineering records, including a world record of remaining on the summit for 21 hours without supplemental oxygen. Paying our respects to these brave souls was a deeply moving experience.
We then continued to Lobuche, located at an altitude of about 4,900 meters, where we spent the night.
In the evening, we hiked to nearby Nagarjun peak, reaching an elevation of about 5,100 meters. It was another opportunity to acclimatize but also surprised us with the beautiful landscape of upper Khumbu Glacier.
It was bitterly cold that evening, and we sought refuge in the dining room, warmed by traditional yak-dung stoves. The following morning, we were rewarded with stunning views of Mt. Pumori (7,161 meters) and Mt. Nuptse (7,861 meters) to the northeast and Lobuche Peak to the west.
Until then, we had all been in good spirits. However, that morning I awoke feeling unwell. Even minimal activity left me severely short of breath, weak, and exhausted. Concerned that I was developing acute mountain sickness (AMS), I took my first dose of acetazolamide and reassessed our plans. After discussing the situation with our guide, we decided to continue cautiously towards Everest Base Camp, with the understanding that we would return to Lobuche the same day instead of staying overnight at Gorak Shep, the usual final stop to EBC for most trekkers.
Despite feeling unwell, I managed to reach Everest Base Camp, located at an altitude of about 5,300 meters. The Base Camp is unlike any place I have ever visited-rugged, pristine, majestic, and filled with a sense of adventure that is difficult to describe.
After taking some customary photographs, we began our return journey. Unfortunately, Aanya suddenly developed significant pain in her leg and started limping. The pain worsened steadily, and anti-inflammatory medication provided little relief.
We had no choice but to return to Gorak Shep and arrange a horse ride. Fortunately, we were able to find one within an hour, allowing her to ride comfortably back to Lobuche while the rest of us continued walking.
Along the trail, we encountered many wildlife and domestic animals, including horses, jokyos (yak-cattle hybrids), yaks, Himalayan pikas, and yellow billed choughs, adding yet another memorable aspect to the journey.
The Journey Home...
After another night of rest at Lobuche, we continued our descent. I still felt some distress in breathing early morning reminding me that we were still high enough in altitude where mountain sickness remained a concern. I took acetazolamide for the second day. Aanya continued her horse ride while the rest of us kept walking. We returned to Pangboche and stayed once again at the same lodge we had promised to revisit.
The owner warmly welcomed us back and served traditional Sherpa stew and salt tea, offering another glimpse into Sherpa hospitality and culture.
Just beyond Pangboche, our attention was drawn to a hydropower facility on the opposite side of the river. It was the Ama Dablam Mini Hydropower Project, an impressive example of renewable energy in the high Himalayas. Situated at an elevation of approximately 4,400 meters, it is touted to be one of the highest-altitude hydropower plants in the world. With an installed capacity of 911 kW, the hydropower will provide electricity to approximately 450 households across more than 20 villages in the upper Khumbu region, and it is expected to be complete and operational soon.
To allow Aanya additional time to recover, we arranged another horse from Pangboche to Monjo. We stayed another night at the same hotel where we had spent the night on our way up. From there, we trekked another day, the last on this journey, and arrived, Lukla, the starting point of our trek.
Our legs felt heavy and weary at this time, but we kept moving, accompanied by the rhythmic turning of prayer wheels, the fluttering of prayer flags, and occasional distant chanting of monks.
Unable to find transportation to Kathmandu that day, we spent the night in a so-called luxury hotel at Lukla. It was comfortable enough, although we felt there was room for improvement, and we shared our suggestions with the hotel owner. Interestingly, he was not very receptive to our feedback and became somewhat defensive, insisting that the hotel operated in the usual manner.
Because the chances of flights operating the following day-or even over the next several days-were very low due to the persistent bad weather, we arranged a chartered helicopter to Kathmandu for the next morning provided that no commercial flights operated the following morning. We also learned that no such flights were made for more than a week due to weather conditions.
The alternative was equally unappealing, as reports from incoming trekkers described the long off-road journey between Salleri and Surke as extremely rough and exhausting and needed another day of travel to reach Kathmandu from Salleri.
The Flight Home...
However, when we woke up the next morning, we were spellbound by the clearest sky we had seen in days. The mountains once again stood proudly around the DudhKoshi Valley on all sides, their snow-capped peaks glowing in the morning light.
To the east, I could make out the impressive Numbur massif. To the west stood Karyloung while Kongde Ri towered on northwest acting like a guardian angel of the valley.
Our guide called us early in the morning to get ready, as flights were now scheduled to arrive from Kathmandu and it was time to check in at Lukla airport. We hurried through the security checkpoint and entered the departure area, where we were greeted by a mix of anxious and relieved faces-tourists and locals alike. Everyone's eyes were fixed on the runway.
Before long, a Twin Otter touched down gracefully and rolled toward the terminal. Soon we were boarding, and within minutes we were airborne.
Once again, luck was on our side-or perhaps luck is simply chance viewed through the lens of optimism.
As the aircraft gently flew over the Himalayas, I found myself once again appreciating the power and irresistible allure of these majestic mountains.
Snow-covered peaks stretched across the distant horizon, while many rivers, including the tributaries to mighty SaptaKoshi, marked the lush green valleys below. Scattered across the hillsides were picturesque villages, adding another layer of color to the landscape.
In about half an hour, we were back in the Kathmandu Valley, where our beautiful journey had begun just ten days earlier. Looking back, none of us, including our guide and porter, could believe that we had completed the Everest Base Camp trek on a tight schedule despite the exceptionally challenging monsoon weather and widespread flight disruptions.
Afterthoughts...
The Everest Base Camp trek has something to offer to everyone.
Along the trail we met trekkers from New Zealand, Australia, India, China, and many other countries. We also met an eight-year-old girl, trekking with her parents, which was a pleasant surprise and an inspiration.
Since we traveled during the monsoon season, unpredictable weather affected many people's plans.
Some trekkers were frustrated by repeated flight cancellations. Others endured the long, rough journey from Kathmandu to Lukla, arriving exhausted after hours of travel on bumpy off- roads. Many were disappointed because clouds obscured the view of Mount Everest throughout their trek, while others gave up hiking to KalaPatthar due to poor visibility.
Yet we also met many travelers who were absolutely thrilled despite these challenges. For them, Everest itself was not the only destination. They embraced the entire experience-the mountains in all their forms, the monasteries, roaring rivers, Sherpa culture, local traditions, and the warmth of the people who call this remarkable landscape home.
I found myself among this latter group.
Although I never saw the peak of Mount Everest during the trek, I never felt disappointed. Instead, I was captivated by many other wonderful peaks and landscapes. More importantly, I experienced the resilience, humility, and generosity of the people who have built their lives in one of the world's most challenging environments.
Despite limited access to clean water, electricity, healthcare, and many modern conveniences, the people of the Khumbu region continue to live with remarkable dignity, warmth, and contentment.
This journey reminded me that happiness is not synonymous with comfort or luxury. True fulfillment comes from appreciating life's experiences, embracing challenges, connecting with others, and finding gratitude in the present moment.
I also hope that both the central and local governments continue investing in improving safety for the many laborers who work tirelessly in this region but with extreme risk. Many people were seen carrying loads of almost 100 kgs on their back in this difficult terrain. Better transportation and improved access to Lukla and beyond would not only reduce the risk but could also substantially increase tourism, even during the off-season. This, of course, is simply my opinion.
Above all, I remain deeply grateful for everything this trail gave us-the unforgettable scenery, the friendships we formed, and the extraordinary hospitality of the Sherpa people, whose ancestors have called these mountains home for centuries.
Everest Base Camp is far more than a destination. It is a journey that creates lasting memories, teaches humility, strengthens interpersonal bonds, and reminds us that the greatest reward lies not in standing at the foot of the world's highest mountain, but in everything we experience along the way.
Disclaimer: The opinions and personal experiences expressed in this memoir are my own. The information and data presented here have been gathered from a variety of sources, including our guide, porter, residents, fellow trekkers, and publicly available references. While I have made every effort to ensure accuracy, some details may be subject to change or interpretation. If you have any questions or believe any information requires clarification or correction, please do not hesitate to contact me (regmi2006@gmail.com), or consult official government and tourism websites for verification.
Rajan Regmi MD, MBA (Wisconsin, USA)