The IFMGA-certified mountain guide has rescued dozens and summited six of the world's 8,000m peaks in a career defined by courage and compassion.
KATHMANDU, OCTOBER 21
High in Nepal's Gaurishankar Rural Municipality of Dolakha district, a boy born in 1985 would grow up to carry forward one of the Himalaya's most remarkable legacies. That boy, Tsering Pemba Sherpa, has today become a symbol of dedication, professionalism, and humanity in high-altitude mountaineering.
Born to Ang Chhiring Sherpa and Furdiki Sherpa, and grandson of Nima Chhiri Sherpa-a member of Sir Edmund Hillary's historic Everest expedition -Tsering Pemba inherited a lineage steeped in mountaineering history. His family's legacy includes his father and six uncles, who collectively summited Everest an astounding 65 times.
But Tsering's own journey began from heartbreak. In 2006, at just 21, he lost his father-an event that pushed him to step into the mountains, not merely to follow tradition but to define his own path. "After my father's death, I entered the mountaineering sector automatically," he recalls. "It felt like the only place I belonged."
A year later, on May 23, 2007, he reached the top of Mount Everest for the first time. It was the start of an extraordinary career. Over the years, he would go on to climb Everest 12 times out of 17 attempts, alongside numerous other Himalayan giants - Manaslu (8 times), Ama Dablam (15), Cho Oyu (3), Lhotse (2), K2, Broad Peak, Shishapangma, and several more.
His climbing resume includes six different 8,000-meter peaks and first ascents of two previously unclimbed mountains - Beding Go (6,125m) and Khang Karpo (6,646m)-both recognized by the Nepal government.
Yet, what truly distinguishes him is not the number of summits but the lives he's saved. Over two decades, Tsering has led or joined numerous rescue missions-from the 2010 Cho Oyu avalanche and the 2012 Manaslu disaster to the 2015 Gorkha earthquake, during which he personally helped rescue over 50 climbers at Everest Base Camp.
In 2021, he spent six perilous days recovering the bodies of three French climbers from Mingbo Eiger, and in 2024, he rescued a Macedonian climber in critical condition on Mount Lhotse. "Even during my own summit pushes, I've rescued dozens of stranded climbers," he says. "Sometimes I've trekked 40 hours straight to save someone I didn't even know."
An IFMGA-certified international mountain guide, Tsering stands among a small elite of Nepali guides holding this globally recognized qualification, which demands years of technical training and rescue expertise. His work has taken him to Pakistan, India, Tibet, Africa, and Europe, leading international teams and training aspiring guides.
Today, he serves as a lead guide and rope-fixing leader with 8K Expeditions Pvt. Ltd., one of Nepal's top mountaineering companies. His role extends beyond climbing-it's about mentorship and safety. "Working with 8K Expeditions isn't just a job," he says. "It's a calling that allows me to contribute to Nepal's mountaineering community and save lives in the process."
His guiding philosophy reflects the humility of the Sherpa tradition. "Saving a human life is a great virtue," he says. "If you ever see someone in distress in the mountains, help them immediately-from your heart."
As Nepal's mountaineering industry continues to evolve, Tsering Pemba Sherpa stands out as one of its most respected figures-an expert climber, tireless rescuer, and a living bridge between the legacy of his ancestors and the future of responsible Himalayan guiding.
From the small village of Rowaling to the summit of the world, his story is a testament to courage, compassion, and the enduring Sherpa spirit that never leaves anyone behind.
