KATHMANDU, JANUARY 11
Former British Gurkha soldier Hari Budha Magar has made mountaineering history, becoming the first double above-knee amputee to summit the highest peaks on all seven continents after reaching the top of Mount Vinson in Antarctica on January 6, 2026.
After departing his home in the United Kingdom on Christmas Eve and traveling to one of the most remote places in the world, Hari and his team battled brutal -25°C temperatures, fierce Antarctic winds, vertical slopes, and freezing ice fields during a grueling three-day climb.
The team, consisting of Abiral Rai, Mingma Sherpa, and climb leader Jangbu Sherpa from Alpine Ascents, reached the 4,892-meter summit at 22:00 local time, completing Magar's years-long Conquering Dreams - 7 Summits mission.
"Antarctic winds, treacherous slopes and freezing ice fields tested the former infanteer's mind, body and prosthetic legs to the extreme," the team said.
"If you have a dream and dedicate yourself and never give up, you can achieve anything - whatever life throws at you," Magar said after summiting. "We have shown that nothing is impossible and made awareness of disability, inspiring others to climb 'their own mountains' and conquer their dreams whatever that might be."
The climb pushed the former Royal Gurkha Rifles NCO to his absolute limits. "The climb was very tough, the conditions and difficulty meant that I was literally crawling up on all fours, battling my way up the mountain," Magar said to the Gurkha Brigade Association.
The expedition required the team to navigate the treacherous Branscomb Glacier while roped together to overcome hazardous crevasses. They then climbed over 1,000 meters in elevation using fixed ropes on 45-degree slopes, where soft snow mixed with windblown icy patches slowed their progress to high camp. The final push to the summit became even more exposed to high winds, testing Magar's mind, body, and prosthetic legs to the extreme, the association further added.
Adding to the historic moment, a total of seven Nepalese climbers reached the summit of Vinson Massif on the same day, making January 6, 2026 an unforgettable day for Nepal in Antarctica. The seven Nepali summiteers included Hari Budha Magar, Jangbu Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Abiral Rai, Aang Phurba Sherpa, Mingma Phortse, and JB Sherpa.
For Abiral Rai, this marked his fourth Seven Summit, having now conquered the highest peaks in South America, Oceania, Antarctica, and Asia, moving him steadily closer to his own Seven Summits dream.
Rai described the day as "unforgettable and historic," noting that the achievement symbolised resilience and unity.
Born in Nepal's Rolpa district, Magar served in the Royal Gurkha Rifles for 15 years before an IED explosion in Afghanistan in 2010 changed his life forever. The blast cost him both his legs above the knees, and what followed was a difficult journey that included struggles with mental and physical recovery, thoughts of suicide, and addiction.
But with the support of his family and veteran charities, the 45-year-old found a new purpose through adventure and sport. His journey began with a skydive, then progressed to golf and skiing, before he set his sights on a childhood dream: climbing Mount Everest.
Magar's extraordinary quest began in August 2019 when he scaled Mont Blanc (4,810m) in Europe, followed by Mt. Kilimanjaro (5,895m) in Africa in January 2020. After a brief pause, he made global headlines in May 2023 by summiting Mt. Everest (8,849m), becoming the first double above-knee amputee to reach the world's highest peak-an accomplishment that earned him a Guinness World Record and the Pride of Britain Award.
Continuing his ambitious challenge, Magar climbed Denali (6,190m) in North America in June 2024 and Mt. Aconcagua (6,961m) in South America in February 2025. In July 2025, he scaled Mt. Olympus (2,918m) in Greece alongside local climber Marios Giannakou, dedicating the ascent to Giannakou's late friend Jason Kenisson, who had died on Everest two years earlier-the same day Magar reached its summit.
Then in October 2025, Magar conquered Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m) in Oceania, reaching the summit at 7:00 am local time on October 18. "This climb was one of the most technical of all the Seven Summits," he said after the ascent. "But with my team's help, we made it."
With Mount Vinson now conquered, Magar has completed all Seven Summits, joining fewer than 500 climbers worldwide who have achieved this feat-and becoming the only double above-knee amputee to do so.
The achievement has drawn widespread praise from veteran and disability organisations. Blesma, the Limbless Veterans, congratulated Magar for "making history" and becoming the first double above-knee amputee to complete the Seven Summits. "We're incredibly proud to support Hari's mission to change perceptions of disability and inspire others," the charity said in a statement.
Throughout his expeditions, Magar has worked with companies like Ottobock, Parajumpers, and AG1, testing advanced prosthetic technology that helps improve designs for other amputees worldwide. He relies on Ottobock's Genium X3 prosthetic legs for his climbs and everyday life.
"These legs empower me and have given me the independence to live my life and achieve what many thought was impossible - like climbing some of the highest peaks in the world as a double above-knee amputee," Magar explained.
Summiting Mount Vinson not only marks another world first in mountaineering, but represents a major milestone in Magar's broader mission to create awareness of disability and change societal perceptions.
"Changing perceptions of disability will not happen overnight," Magar emphasized. "Since Everest, I have dedicated my life to this mission, showing that with support, adaptation, and perseverance, people with disabilities can accomplish the impossible. Please help me to make awareness of disability around the world-this message should go to every person with a disability, their loved ones, society and authorities."
Through his Conquering Dreams - 7 Summits challenge, enabled by DIGI2AL, Magar is raising funds for veterans' charities including The Gurkha Welfare Trust, Blesma, Team Forces, On Course Foundation, and Pilgrim Bandits.
For Magar, the achievement is not about personal glory. "It's not about fame or money," he says. "It's about proving that disability is not inability, that we can all rise beyond our limits, no matter how high the mountain."
"Believing in ourselves is key to overcoming any obstacle. Every challenge becomes an opportunity to grow and achieve the impossible," he added. "Together, we make anything possible."
Magar thanked his team, family, friends, community, charities, partners, and supporters: "This wouldn't happen without them."