KATHMANDU: There is a palpable excitement during festivals in Kathmandu Valley. And if the festival is Indra Jatra also known as Kumari Jatra or Yenya Jatra, one of the longest festivals celebrated in Kathmandu, then the sheer thrill among people is contagious. The streets, narrow lanes, chowks and bazaars come alive with traditional music, mask dances and the merrymakers. And with the erection of Indradhwoja (wooden pole) at Hanuman Dhoka this year’s Indra Jatra began on September 25.

Indradhawoja and charm of Guruju Paltan

There are various people and groups who have vital roles in the celebration of Indra Jatra. One such role is played by the Guruju Paltan. Since the period of king Prithivi Narayan Shah, Guruju Paltan has become a part of the major festivals and ceremonies such as the Machhendranath Rath Jatra, Dashian, Indra Jatra and many more. The dresses they wear are the same from that period and have been used till date.

Guruju Paltan is a group of men from the Nepal Army’s Shardul Jung Platoon, clad in traditional uniforms who escort the procession playing their musical instruments along with carrying flags. During Indra Jatra, the Guruju Paltan is seen at various activities and ceremonies of the festival. And the number of platoon differs in the each activity.

The erection of the pole is very important as it marks the beginning of the festival. But before the erection of the pole, a tree needs to be identified which is usually done by a black goat. The black goat is used to select a pine tree in the forest of Sallaghari in Nala , Kavre district. “Pine is believed to be pure and the erection of the pillar brings entertainment to the festival,” said Rajan Maharjan President of 25 Ward Jatra Management Committee/Yuva Bishwo Hindu Mahasangha. The tree must be equal to thirty-two size of an arm. “As per Hindu culture and tradition, the number 32 is supposed to be good,” he stated.

This time the tree is equal to 37 arms. However, according to Rajendra Manandhar, a member of the Kendriya Manandhar Sangh, the pole should not be smaller than the size of 35 arms. He added, “These days when people select, they hug the tree and the two hands should just meet.”

And to do so seven army men (Guruju Paltan) along with the priest, contractor and people from Manandhar clan went to select the wooden pole on September 15, according to the army officer who wished to remain unnamed.

Before cutting down the chosen tree, one of them fired the old musket in the air marking the time to chop the tree. The next day again one of them fired gun in the air and the felled tree was pulled by men to Surya Binayak where the tree is kept for a night, as per the tradition. Those who are pulling the tree needs to take a rest. “This is why the tradition of keeping the tree at Surya Binayak is followed even today,” Maharjan informed.

The tree is then pulled to Bhotahiti and is kept for four days and nights.

On the day of Ekadeshi, the Manandhar Samaj then keeps the Indradhwoj (flags), rope and an iron ring on the trunk so as to make the lifting easier. On the day of Dwadashi, the pillar is erected which marks the beginning of Indra Jatra.

At the base of the pillar an idol of Indra sitting on his Eirawat elephant is placed. “There was no erection of pillar during the Malla period. When Girwan Yuddha Bikram Shah visited India he saw bamboo pillars erected with colourful flags on them and being inspired from the same, the legacy of erecting a pillar started then,” informed Maharjan.

The lingo was pulled on September 21 to Hanuman Dhoka from Bhotahiti and on September 25 the pole was erected in front of Kaageshwor Temple in Hanuman Dhoka on the day of Kaage Ashtami. Thirty men from the platoon went to mark the auspicious occasion of pulling and erecting the pole. The troupe of 29 men is commanded by a commander where 16 men carry the weapons (gun, khukuri), 11 men play the music (flute and drum set), two men carry flags that represents Goddess Ani and Pani. Ani is always carried on right side, and Pani on the left of the line of two rows. According to the army officer, the flags, with yellow base and red border is the platoon’s goddess and every day there is a puja for the goddess.

As the lingo is placed upright, the troupe fires the musket to pay respect to Indra and circles the lingo three times along with playing the musical instruments. Then on the main day of Indra Jatra, Kumari, Ganesh, Bhairav Rath Yatra, 60 men from the platoon participate in the procession which is to take place on September 27 this year.

Under the command of one officer, 12 men play musical instruments, 42 men with weapons, two men carry the flags and three men accompany the troupe. The firing by Guruju Paltan marks the beginning and ending of the chariot procession. The scene of 60 men marching in tune to the music before the chariot procession, donned in black daura-suruwal, white belt, hat with Chatadi (silver ornament on the hat having symbol of moon or lion carrying a flag) and leather boots is spectacular and is unique. Moreover, those who are waiting to see the chariot jatra during Indra Jatra, their arrival give the spectators’ excitement and happiness that now their wait is over.

About being called Guruju Paltan, the army officer said, “We are only army men and it is believed that the local Newars of Kathmandu during the period of king Prithivi Narayan Shah called the troupe Guruju ko Paltan and we became popular by that name.”

Myth behind the festival

Indrawati was the mother of Indra, the king of heaven. She was on a fast for Teej and wanted some parijat flowers. She told Indra to bring it from Earth. Indra came to Bhagwatipaari, Kathmandu where there was a parijat tree. A jyapu (farmer) caught him stealing the flowers and tied him with a rope to humiliate him in the public. The worried mother came to the Valley in search of her son. Jyapu recognised her and told her that he would free her son only if she fulfilled their wish to take them to heaven and show the dead souls on the way to heaven. It is therefore believed that she shows the way to heaven. This is why the kin of dead light a batti (oil lamp) and take a round of the city on the day of Dwadashi following a week, as per Maharjan. Some of them light only incense sticks. “There was a tradition of touring the city and worshipping the deities around during the early medieval period and this tradition is the continuation of the same,” informed Pushkar Prasad Rajbhandari, a retired Professor of Culture.

Sushila Deula, a resident of Chhetrapati, was walking carrying a batti in her hand. “I have lit the batti and am touring the city in memory of my father. It is believed that the dead soul sees the way to heaven if we do this,” she narrated.

The tour takes the route from Kumarighar, Maru, Jaisaidewal, Lagan, Bhotebahal, Wonde, Bramhatole, Humat, then again to Jaisidewal, Kohiti, Bhimsensthan, Maruhiti, Kasthamandap, Pyaphal, Yetkha, Nardevi, Raktakali, Nyohka, Bangemudha, Nyakhatole, Ashan, Balkumari, Machhindrabahal, Indrachowk, Makhhan, Hanuman Dhoka and Kumarighar, as per Maharjan. This is known as Apaku in Newari, Apa meaning bricks. Ku has multiple meaning. Preserving, waiting and saving are some of its meanings, as per Rajbhandari.

The Indra Jatra is celebrated to mark Indra’s punishment. Some people believe the festival is celebrated to thank Indra for providing rain. But as per Rajbhandari, the festival was celebrated to humiliate Indra for his crime. “Jatra in Newari means humiliating someone. Today too we can see Indra being tied and this was done by the non-Aryans in humiliating the Aryan gods in the past. The indigenous people gave a continuation of the festival since then,” narrated Rajbhandari.

The chariots of Kumari, Bhairav and Ganesha are pulled on the day of Indra Jatra. A special puja is performed to ward off difficulties during the chariot pulling. The main priest from Taleju Bhagwati worships all these three deities. The power of the goddess is sent in them through the tantric bidhi. During the festival, various dances are also shown such as of Sab Vaku Halchowk Vairabha, Lakhe, Pulukishi (elephant), Mahankal, Ghintang Ghisi among others. Special worshipping is done for Swet Bhairav and Aakash Bhairav during the festival.

Kumari Puja and earthquake effect

The earthquake that occurred on April 25 has destroyed the areas around Basantapur and the condition worse in the Hanuman Dhoka area. There are houses in the area around with wooden supports. The houses in the area could collapse if the chariots are pulled in a haphazard way. This is why Army and Police are pulling the chariots this year. The head of the country used to watch the festival every year from the Gaddi Baithak, but it has been damaged by the earthquake. “The footpath will be used this time,” informed Maharjan.

Yuva Bishwo Hindu Mahasangha organised Kumari Puja on the premises of Hanuman Dokha on September 26. The number of participants at Kumari Puja declined this year and the reason is the buildings of the place where the ritual is done is supported by wooden or iron poles. And the children this year could not visit Taleju temple for the same reason.

Children aged from eight months old and above are dressed beautifully as their parents or guardians bring them for the community ritual event. According to Maharjan, it is the eighth Kumari Puja organised a day prior to the main function of Indra Jatra.

The ritual began with a Sankalpa Puja by the organiser and the ritual is done according to Vajrayan Dharma. Then the children are worshipped with tika and flower. After that all the children are taken for a darshan of Kaal Bhairav and Makhan Pashupati. Then they sit down in their respective places to take dakshina offered by the parents/guardian of the participants. In the dakshina people offer money, chocolate, et cetera according to their wish.

Those children who have completed their Annaprasanna (rice eating ceremony) and whose Bel Bibha has not been done, can be the part of the ritual. And this year a total 158 girl children participated in the puja. About the participation, Rinu Manandhar with her three-and-a-half-year old daughter shared, “This is the first time I have brought my daughter to this Puja and it is believed that the children are blessed and are free from diseases. And everyone I know had brought their daughters for this puja. So I wished to do the same and here I am.”