KATHMANDU, JULY 12
A 32-year-old woman climber successfully scaled three mountains in Pakistan this season becoming the first Nepali woman to climb most 8,000m peaks.
"Dawa Yangzum Sherpa from Rolwaling valley made it to the summit of G1, G2 and Nanga Parbat this month completing her twelfth 8000er," informed Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, Director at Imagine Nepal Treks.
On a mission to complete all 14 peaks, Sherpa scaled G1 on July 21, G2 on July 17 and Nanga Parbat on July 5.
G1(8,080m) is the 11th highest peak while G2(8,035m) is the 13th and Nanga Parbat (8,126m) is the ninth highest peak in the world.
Born in Rolwaling valley of Dolakha district, Dawa Yangzum scaled three peaks in just 16 days, according to Elite Exped, the expedition organiser.
On a mission to complete all 14 peaks, Dawa Yangzum climbed Mt Kanchenjunga in the last spring season. The first Asian woman IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide Dawa Yangzum is the first Nepali woman to climb most 8,000m peaks, and has been mentoring girls keen on mountaineering by providing climbing gear and training.
World-famous companies such as Rolex, The North Face, Lekki and Oakley Sunglasses have appointed her as a brand ambassador. Dawa Yangzum is the youngest K2 summiteer and also the first Nepali woman to have climbed Annapurna I without O2. She also made the first ever ascent of Mt Langdung. Besides, her successful climbs include K2, Everest and the first ascent of two mountains in Nepal. "She is one of three Nepali women who first climbed Mt K2 (8,611m) under the Women for Change Expedition in 2014."
Being the professional guide, Dawa Yangzum also led the National Geographic scientific research team to Mt Everest 2019, 2022 and 2023. She also holds the speed climbing record (female) on Makalu in 20 hours. Dawa Yangzum, who became the first woman to reach Manaslu true summit in autumn, has received many awards including Kumar Khadga Bikram Sahasik Puruskar and Tenzing Hillary Award. She had climbed Mt Everest in 2012 as her first 8,000er.
Dawa Yangzum, who is also the second vice president of Nepal Mountaineering Association, plans to climb the remaining two peaks – Cho-Oyu and Sishapangma- to complete all 14 peaks above 8,000m.
