KATHMANDU, MAY 23
A joint expedition team comprising members of the Indian Army's Adventure Wing and the Nepali Army successfully summited Mt Kanchenjunga (8,586 m), the world's third-highest mountain, earlier this week.
According to Chang Dawa Sherpa, Expedition Director at Seven Summit Treks, the ascent took place in two waves on May 19 and 20 via the mountain's southwest (Yalung Face) route.
The expedition was jointly led by Col Sarfraz Singh of the Indian Army and Maj Gajendra Deuba of the Nepali Army, under the 2025 Joint Indo-Nepal Army Mountaineering Expedition.
Seven Summit Treks was responsible for the overall expedition logistics, mountain guidance, and support operations.
On May 19, the summit team included Col Sarfraz Singh (Expedition Leader), Tsering Dorjey, Tarun Singh Sindhu, Sanjay Kumar, and Satish Singh from the Indian Army, along with Prashant Khadka, Janak Saud, Nabin Tarami Magar, and Amar Bahadur Karki from the Nepali Army. They were supported by Sherpa climbers Gyalu Sherpa, Lakpa Temba Sherpa, Pasang Dawa Sherpa, Pasang Dukpa Sherpa, Ang Kami Sherpa, Ngima Sherpa, Pasang Phurba Sherpa, and Lakpa Thindu Sherpa.
The first summit group made their final push from Camp IV (approximately 7,550 m) in the early hours of 19 May and reached the summit the same morning in stable weather conditions.
The second summit wave on May 20 was led by Maj Gajendra Deuba and included Kesh Bahadur Karki, Ram Kumar Shrestha, Shree Krishna Paunju, Ran Bahadur Yongya, and Chandra Bahadur Balami. They were assisted by Sherpa team members Nawang Thindu Sherpa, Kami Chiri Sherpa, Lakpa Dorji Sherpa, and Lakpa Sherpa.
Subedar Dhana Karki, Goswami, and Jhony also reached high altitudes of 8,570 m, 8,550 m, and 8,400 m, respectively, though they did not reach the summit.
All climbers returned safely without injuries.
The Indian Ministry of Defence hailed the mission as a "milestone in military mountaineering and India–Nepal friendship."
"We are proud of the climbers' achievement and are immensely grateful to our expedition crew for guiding and managing a very safe and successful expedition. This expedition marks a celebration of the long-standing Nepal-India relation," it added.
The expedition also highlighted broader goals, including enhancing defense cooperation, shared training standards, and interoperability in demanding mountain environments.
Kanchenjunga, straddling the Nepal–India border in eastern Nepal, is known for its technical difficulty, unpredictable weather, and treacherous terrain. First climbed in 1955 by a British expedition, it remains one of the most demanding 8,000-meter peaks.
"We are proud to have provided full expedition logistics, including route preparation, high-altitude equipment, weather monitoring, and professional Sherpa support. We congratulate all climbers and are pleased to have contributed to the safe and successful execution of this cross-national mountaineering effort," said Seven Summit Treks.
