Nepal

28-year-old Tejan Gurung scales Cho Oyu, aims to be youngest 14 peak summiteer

By THT Online

Tejan Gurung. Photo Courtesy: Nimsdai

KATHMANDU, OCTOBER 4

A former Gurkha soldier from Pokhara is all set to hold the world record by climbing his 14th 8000er – Shishapangma in Tibet at the age of 28 years.

Tejan Gurung from Pokhara has scaled Mt Cho Oyu on October 3 completing his 13th peak above 8,000m and he is now on the way to the base camp of Shishapangma to accomplish his mission, a statement issued by the Elite Exped said.

'Fast forward to today, Tejan has one more mountain left to climb until he completes his 14 peaks dream - conquering two world firsts: the youngest British male to summit all 8,000m peaks and fastest team to climb all of the big five mountains in Pakistan in 26 days,' the statement added. Currently, the record is being held by Mingma David Sherpa who completed all 14 highest peaks at the age of 30 years 166 days in 2019.

Tejan was born in 1995 and lived his early childhood in Nepal until 2005 when the family moved to the United Kingdom after his father's retirement from the Gurkhas. Until this point, Tejan and his family had a very happy life in Pokhara with Tejan attending the local school, Hill Point High School. Tejan would often be found active in sports at school and from here it led to him actively pursuing new challenges.

Inspired by his father and the work of The Brigade of Gurkhas, Tejan joined the military in 2014 when he was 19 years old as a Royal Engineer, later qualifying for the All-Arms Commando Course. Tejan earned his right to serve with the 24 Commando Regiment within the three Commando Brigades for a further six years. Designed to develop mental resolve, physical robustness, and core military skills – the All-Arms Commando Course aims to ensure the individual is ready for any demanding environment and littoral operations.

With his childhood love for Nepal, the mindset and physical fitness of a soldier, Tejan scaled his first 8,000m peak (Everest) on 27th May 2022 followed swiftly by Lhotse on 28th May 2022 with Nims Purja. Until this point, the highest he had climbed was in 2017 when Tejan climbed Lobuche East at 6,145m.

After leaving the military in 2023 – after 8 years of service, Tejan wasted no time in returning to his homeland and igniting the timer on his 14 Peak Project – successfully summiting Annapurna on 15th April 2023. Standing tall on Annapurna, Tejan was now set on the record – his 14 Peak Project had well and truly begun. 'As an integral part of the Elite Exped family, Nepalese founded expedition company, Tejan, immersed himself into the big mountains while pursuing his own mission to conquer the 14 peaks. Often referred to as the Mountain Yeti, Tejan is one of the team's strongest and most positive climbers – using his military expertise to his and his teams' advantage with great determination, skill, and positivity,' the Elite Exped said.

Tejan says, 'Nepal is part of my heritage, so my love for the Big Mountains and its people have always been in my heart; I've always known this is where I want to be from a very young age – the mountains were my backyard.'

The military teaches him many things in life and with that mindset and skill he has been able to conquer even his darkest moments when on an 8,000m peak. 'After my first exposure to high altitude climbing in 2017, I fell in love with the mountain and wanted to do more – the hunger to chase my dream and conquer all 14 Peaks really kicked in when I climbed Everest in 2022. Everyone has their own mountain to climb, and I guess mine was the 14 - I am proud I was able to start this adventure in my homeland and look forward to being able to celebrate this achievement in Nepal once I have climbed Shishapangma,' Tejan shared.

Commenting on Tejan's current success, celebrated climber Nirmal 'Nims' Purja says: 'When I first met Tejan I knew he was determined to achieve – I saw this in his career within the military and when he first tackled an 8000m peak, Everest, in 2022! His focus and resilience embody the Elite Exped spirit perfectly – there is a time to be serious and plan, and a time when you can relax and have a laugh! It has been an honour to watch TJ grow and succeed – nothing has stood in his way and with him by your side everyone can achieve their new possible! I am proud we have both been able to wave the flag for our motherland, Nepal, and show the world its beauty.'

Once Shishapangma has been climbed, Tejan plans to help to inspire others to achieve their new possible with Elite Exped and continue to share the wonders Nepal has to offer both on and off the mountain, according to Elite Exped.

Summit Success:

• Everest - 27 May 2022

• Lhotse - 28 May 2022

• Annapurna - 15 April 2023

• Makalu - 23 May 2023

• Kanchenjunga - 1 June 2023

• Nanga Parbat - 2 July 2023

• G2 - 17 July 2023

• G1 - 21 July 2023

• Board Peak - 25 July 2023

• K2 - 28 July 2023

• Manaslu - 17 September 2023

• Dhaulagiri - 29 September 2023

• Cho Oyu – 2 October 2023

• Shishapangma (TBC)