KATHMANDU, FEBRUARY 14 Record-holding Chinese mountaineer He Jing along with Sherpa climbers have been felicitated in the Capital after they returned from the historic first winter ascent of two virgin peaks in Western Nepal. At a ceremony in Kathmandu, NTB Chief Executive Officer Deepak Raj Joshi presented He Jing with Guinness World Record certificates recognizing her as the first woman to climb all 14 eight-thousanders to their true summits without supplemental oxygen, and for the fastest Everest-K2 summit without bottled oxygen. The team - comprising He Jing, IFMGA Guide Dawa Phinjo Lama Bhote, and Seven Summit Treks guides Ming Temba Sherpa, Phurba Sonam Sherpa, Wangdang Bhote, and Speed Dawa - summited Jyanglatunpu (6,062m) and Kekyap Ri (6,187m) on February 9.

NTB board director Bhandari, who is also general secretary of the Expedition Operators' Association Nepal, said the first ascent would send a positive message about Nepal's climbing sector globally. CEO Joshi congratulated the team for exploring the potential of Nepal's unclimbed peaks - an area increasingly seen as crucial for diversifying the country's mountain tourism offerings beyond the crowded eight-thousanders. According to Seven Summit Treks (SST), Nepal's largest adventure operator which organized the expedition, the winter climb showcased a blend of lightweight, self-reliant approaches with classical Himalayan mountaineering values. Recounting her experience, He Jing contrasted the Mustang expedition with her previous eight-thousander climbs. 'For me it's very special, a big challenge,' she said. 'Before, when I climbed all 14 [eight-thousanders] without oxygen, I always followed professional setups. This time, everything was on our own, all together as a team. It was a different way, no big support like ropes and Sherpas but as partners.' She described starkly different conditions on the two peaks. 'On one peak, no snow on top. On the second peak (6,187m), too much snow, and in the last 100 meters, lots of rock and very steep. We saw Dhaulagiri and Annapurna,' He Jing said, expressing gratitude to sponsor Pelliot, a leading outdoor brand focused on innovative, high-performance mountaineering gear, for providing expedition equipment.

The expedition, supported by Pelliot and dubbed the Triple Crown Virgin Peak Expedition, departed Kathmandu on February 4. According to SST, the team opted for an alternative access route into the Ghyun valley, establishing initial base camp near Ghar Gumba - approximately 200 metres lower than previous SST sites in the area. Recent snowfall forced route adjustments, with the team bypassing a planned couloir and traverse in favor of a ridge route. After crossing Kekyap La pass at 5,600 metres, climbers descended into the valley and trekked along the riverside to establish a final base camp about an hour short of the ideal site due to fatigue from loads and challenging terrain. The summit push began at 2:25 am on February 9. While Jyanglatunpu presented moderate snow cover, Kekyap Ri demanded more technical navigation, according to SST. The team fixed 50-60 metres of rope for safety on the steeper sections. The final 100 metres below Kekyap Ri's summit involved steep mixed terrain with snow and rock, culminating in a sharp, exposed rocky ridge that required 30-45 minutes of careful climbing.

Team members said the peaks could be developed for commercial expeditions. IFMGA Guide Dawa Phinjo Lama Bhote described the climb as particularly challenging due to navigation demands, saying the planned route couldn't be followed directly because of snowfall and terrain conditions. He compared the experience to alpine-style climbing in Europe where climbers plan routes and details independently. Ming Temba Sherpa, an SST senior guide who has summited all 14 eight-thousanders, assessed the commercial potential. 'It's the kind of peak that could be climbed commercially, and you can see Annapurna and Dhaulagiri,' Sherpa added. According to SST, he noted that while the approach to base camp was lengthy and the peaks were distant from camp, professional climbers found the technical difficulty manageable. For commercial clients wanting to climb both peaks in one expedition, he suggested a high camp would be necessary. Phurba Sonam Sherpa said the remote location in Mustang - despite being a popular tourist destination - had kept the peaks unclimbed. He indicated that while professional climbers might not require fixed ropes, basic climbers would need them for the mixed climbing involved. 'In Mustang, so many tourists come, but why hadn't anyone reached there? It didn't feel too hard.' Speed Dawa described the pioneering nature of the climb, noting he and Ming Temba Sherpa went ahead to find the route on both peaks. 'First time [for such a climb], so I was a bit nervous at first, but everything went fine. Mingtemba and I went ahead a bit to find the way... We climbed Jyanglatunpu like that, and then the other peak in a similar way, looking ahead. We fixed about 50–60 meters of rope! The place was quite remote!' The team included Wangdang Bhote, another SST senior guide, bringing the total climbing party to six. Although they intended to attempt Chhuama IV (6,179m), the last unclimbed peak in the nearby Chhuama Range, time limitations following the double ascent forced them to retreat, according to SST. Chhuama IV remains a target for future expeditions. SST said the expedition demonstrated the company's dedication to pioneering new peaks and evolving alpinism styles while maintaining minimal environmental impact. The successful ascent adds to Nepal's growing portfolio of exploratory mountaineering destinations, offering alternatives to the increasingly crowded traditional climbing routes that have raised safety and environmental concerns in recent years.