Bhaktapur Ghini Tang Ghini Tang Ghinta Ghishi Twak — this is the unique sound that resounds in the procession of Gai Jatra at Bhaktapur. Although Gai Jatra is also celebrated in Kathmandu and Patan, the vibrant and the hypnotic Ghinita Ghishi dance and music does not resound in the Gai Jatra celebrations in other cities of the Valley. The Ghinita Ghishi procession affects all equally and the smiling faces of the spectators at Bhaktapur Durbar Square as they looked at the performers is proof enough. Age is no limit to participate in this dance as children, teenagers and adults were dancing attracting the attention of passersby and infecting everyone with their joy. In Bhaktapur, the revelry of dance, music and performance begins on the day of Gai Jatra, which was on August 30 this year, and continues till Krishna Janmasthami, which is on September 5. Gai Jatra procession of Bhaktapur The festival of Gai Jatra is celebrated with a hope for the safe journey of the deceased relatives to heaven. Those whose relatives have died in the past year participate in the Gai (cow) Jatra. Relatives and kin participate in the procession and visit around various local holy temples. It is believed that with the help of the holy cow, the deceased will reach heaven without any difficulties. The celebration of Gai Jatra in Bhaktapur is distinct as compared to other cities, and Ghinita Ghishi dance and music is one of the reasons. Shyam Krishna Shrestha, the fourth Naaya (leader) of Kotadevi Bajan Khala, Jhaukhel, Bhaktapur was playing the traditional musical instrument Dhime along with other members of the group who were playing other traditional musical instruments like Dha, Khin, Jhyali and Ta. To the tune of their music more than a dozen teenage boys, who had tied red or blue ribbon on their heads, donning white tee-shirts, white janni (long piece of cloth) with a colourful border draped around their waists and Ghangla (small bells) on ankles, were dancing holding a stick in each hand. The sound of their Ghangla and the sticks striking each other supported the rhythm of the Ghinta Ghishi music.  The energetic dance with various jumping movements along with striking the sticks made one want to dance along with them. One of the dancers, 15-year-old Dinesh Shrestha shared, “It took us around a week to learn the dance steps and each day we practised for around three hours with the group. It’s tiring roaming around and dancing, but it is fun and we are showing our respect to the dead through the dance.” This Ghinita Ghishi music and dance troupe represented the dead people from Jhaukhel, which was followed by a Taha Sa (cow) from Jhaukhel carried by four men. Taha Sa represents the cow of the dead that looks like a chariot decorated with traditional cloth pieces with the photo of the deceased hung in the middle. This kind of cow is seen only in Bhaktapur. Each Ghinita Ghishi troupe separates a tole or certain locality and this procession goes from their own tole to Bhaktapur Durbar Square from where they go around Mahalaxmi, Nava Durga Dya Chen, Kaulachen Tole, Taspal, Inacho, Golmadi, Sukuldhoka, Taumadi, Bholachen, Nasamana, Dekhacha, Bharucha, Itachen culminating again at the Bhaktapur Durbar Square. Significance of Ghini Tang Ghishi As Ghinita Ghishi music and dance is found only in Bhaktapur, this tradition represents the identity of Bhaktapur. And there is also philosophical and symbolic significance of this traditional music and dance as Culture Expert Prof Dr Purushottam Lochan Shrestha informs, “There is a symbolic meaning of striking sticks in Ghinita Ghishi dance that represents life. Life is possible only when the male and female are together. Without the either, there will not be any life on earth.” As Ghinta Ghishi music and dance are taken out for the dead during Gai Jatra, this music and dance philosophically represents life, which is a combination of happiness and sadness and the universal truth about life that one who is born has to die. Prof Dr Shrestha adds, “While making or taking out the Gai for the procession, the family members sob remembering their loved ones. And the same family members while looking at others and the vibrant procession tend to forget their sorrow and are seen enjoying the Ghinta Ghishi music and dance. This is the importance of Ghinta Ghishi where it teaches life’s lesson that you have bid goodbye to your loved ones forever, you have to keep moving on and live your life.” Jasmine Prajapati, who was dancing at the Ghinta Ghishi procession for her grandfather expressed, “It is believed that if a family member of the deceased participates in Ghinta Ghishi dance, then the door of  Yamaraj is opened for the dead where the dead can get his/her verdict without having to wait.” Historical importance According to Prof Dr Shrestha, the Ghinta Ghishi was introduced in 14th Century by Malla king Jayasthiti Malla and during that period Kathmandu Valley was the country with Bhaktapur as its capital. “As Bhaktapur was the capital city, there were additional features in the celebration of Gai Jatra and after the Valley was divided into three different countries, the celebration took place but according to the surrounding localities,” added Prof Dr Shrestha. There are over six dozen varieties of Ghinta Ghishi that includes Katthi Pyakha, Maaka Pyakha, Lushi Pyakha, Vaila Pyakha, Mahadev Parbati Pyakha, Kachi Machha Boway Yankegu Pyakha, Nagacha Pyakha, Khya Pyakha and many more. However, with time many of these dance forms have disappeared and at present only around three dozen dance forms are practised, as per Prof Dr Shrestha. In ancient times, there was a limited source of entertainment and the weeklong celebrations of Gai Jatra entertained the people as well as giving them moral education through the performances where the then contemporary events became the story. About this Prof Dr Shrestha informed, “Kachi Machha Boway Yankegu Pyakha, which means the dance of throwing away a newborn baby — in this performance there is the story which is culturally, historically and socially important. The story in the dance depicts the true event that took place during the regime of Rana Bahadur Shah where smallpox broke as an epidemic. To get rid of the contagious disease, he ordered banishment for the family with newborn baby. It was a tragedy but these performances informed about historically important events which is our identity.” One can witness the Ghinta Ghishi performances at the square and toles where the main Gai Jatra procession took place till Krishnajanmasthami, September 5.