Bhaktapur

The Ghinita Ghishi procession affects all equally and the smiling faces of the spectators at Bhaktapur Durbar Square as they looked at the performers is proof enough. Age is no limit to participate in this dance as children, teenagers and adults were dancing attracting the attention of passersby and infecting everyone with their joy.

In Bhaktapur, the revelry of dance, music and performance begins on the day of Gai Jatra, which was on August 30 this year, and continues till Krishna Janmasthami, which is on September 5.

Gai Jatra procession of Bhaktapur

The festival of Gai Jatra is celebrated with a hope for the safe journey of the deceased relatives to heaven. Those whose relatives have died in the past year participate in the Gai (cow) Jatra. Relatives and kin participate in the procession and visit around various local holy temples. It is believed that with the help of the holy cow, the deceased will reach heaven without any difficulties. The celebration of Gai Jatra in Bhaktapur is distinct as compared to other cities, and Ghinita Ghishi dance and music is one of the reasons.

Each Ghinita Ghishi troupe separates a tole or certain locality and this procession goes from their own tole to Bhaktapur Durbar Square from where they go around Mahalaxmi, Nava Durga Dya Chen, Kaulachen Tole, Taspal, Inacho, Golmadi, Sukuldhoka, Taumadi, Bholachen, Nasamana, Dekhacha, Bharucha, Itachen culminating again at the Bhaktapur Durbar Square.

Significance of Ghini Tang Ghishi

As Ghinita Ghishi music and dance is found only in Bhaktapur, this tradition represents the identity of Bhaktapur. And there is also philosophical and symbolic significance of this traditional music and dance as Culture Expert Prof Dr Purushottam Lochan Shrestha informs, “There is a symbolic meaning of striking sticks in Ghinita Ghishi dance that represents life. Life is possible only when the male and female are together. Without the either, there will not be any life on earth.”

As Ghinta Ghishi music and dance are taken out for the dead during Gai Jatra, this music and dance philosophically represents life, which is a combination of happiness and sadness and the universal truth about life that one who is born has to die. Prof Dr Shrestha adds, “While making or taking out the Gai for the procession, the family members sob remembering their loved ones. And the same family members while looking at others and the vibrant procession tend to forget their sorrow and are seen enjoying the Ghinta Ghishi music and dance. This is the importance of Ghinta Ghishi where it teaches life’s lesson that you have bid goodbye to your loved ones forever, you have to keep moving on and live your life.”

Jasmine Prajapati, who was dancing at the Ghinta Ghishi procession for her grandfather expressed, “It is believed that if a family member of the deceased participates in Ghinta Ghishi dance, then the door of  Yamaraj is opened for the dead where the dead can get his/her verdict without having to wait.”

Historical importance

According to Prof Dr Shrestha, the Ghinta Ghishi was introduced in 14th Century by Malla king Jayasthiti Malla and during that period Kathmandu Valley was the country with Bhaktapur as its capital. “As Bhaktapur was the capital city, there were additional features in the celebration of Gai Jatra and after the Valley was divided into three different countries, the celebration took place but according to the surrounding localities,” added Prof Dr Shrestha.

There are over six dozen varieties of Ghinta Ghishi that includes Katthi Pyakha, Maaka Pyakha, Lushi Pyakha, Vaila Pyakha, Mahadev Parbati Pyakha, Kachi Machha Boway Yankegu Pyakha, Nagacha Pyakha, Khya Pyakha and many more. However, with time many of these dance forms have disappeared and at present only around three dozen dance forms are practised, as per Prof Dr Shrestha.

In ancient times, there was a limited source of entertainment and the weeklong celebrations of Gai Jatra entertained the people as well as giving them moral education through the performances where the then contemporary events became the story. About this Prof Dr Shrestha informed, “Kachi Machha Boway Yankegu Pyakha, which means the dance of throwing away a newborn baby — in this performance there is the story which is culturally, historically and socially important. The story in the dance depicts the true event that took place during the regime of Rana Bahadur Shah where smallpox broke as an epidemic. To get rid of the contagious disease, he ordered banishment for the family with newborn baby. It was a tragedy but these performances informed about historically important events which is our identity.”

One can witness the Ghinta Ghishi performances at the square and toles where the main Gai Jatra procession took place till Krishnajanmasthami, September 5.