KATHMANDU:
An Australian woman climber is all set to leave for Mt Annapurna in a bid to complete all 14 peaks above 8,000m without using supplemental oxygen.
Allie Pepper, 48, from the Blue Mountains in Sydney, is now in Kathmandu to prepare for her spring ascent on the world's 10th highest peak this spring season.
On her mission ''The Respect Above the Clouds 14 Peaks No O2'', Pepper says she is committed to achieving her goals through dedication and determination. Pepper is not a new name in mountain climbing. She has over two-decade of experience in which she has proven her adventure skills in different mountains.
"I aim to scale the world's 8000m mountains without supplemental oxygen in the next two years," she said, adding that she began her project from July 2023 by climbing Broad peak in Pakistan and later Mt Manaslu in September 2023.
"Now, I have to complete 12 remaining peaks by the end of July 2025," Pepper shared, adding that she will leave for Mt Annapurna in a few weeks aiming to complete the third peak of her list.
Seven Summit Treks is locally managing her expedition in Nepal while a small crew is also working hard to document her climb. Mikel Sherpa will be guiding her to the mountains, according to SST.
"I believe the biggest challenges offer the greatest rewards in life. It is during these challenges that we discover what we are truly capable of," she said.
Pepper wants to complete all 14 peaks without oxygen in the fastest time. "There are currently only two men in the world that have verified ascents of all 14 x 8000m peaks true summits without oxygen. They took 16 years to complete their projects," she noted. Pepper plans to complete Kanchenjunga and Makalu after Annapurna in the first phase.
Pepper grew up in Australia's largest climbing area, the Blue Mountains. However she didn't discover rock climbing until she was 23 when she signed up to an Outdoor Recreation course at a local TAFE College. "I found a career path that I enjoyed and was naturally quite good at, so I continued to study Outdoor Leadership. I completed a 10 day technical mountaineering course in New Zealand in December, 1999," she explained.
When she finished her leadership course she headed off to Aconcagua in Argentina to work as an assistant guide on her first high altitude mountain. "I felt very strong on the mountain as I was able to take care of others, not just myself, so I pursued high altitude mountaineering," she shared.
Since that first expedition, mountain climbing has changed the course of her life. She spent around 3 years climbing and guiding in the Andes before she decided she was ready for the Himalaya. "In 2007 I embarked on my first 8000m expedition to Cho Oyu 8188m in Tibet. In 8 days I climbed to the summit and back on my own without the use of supplemental oxygen. Only a handful of women in the world have achieved this," she added.
When menopause hit her in 2021, she thought her career was over due to the severity of the symptoms that hit her like a freight train. Once she was able to find the proper hormone replacement therapy, her life changed.
According to her, she then reached the summit of Mt Everest, the fore-summit of Manaslu and in April 2022 became the third Australian to achieve the summit of Annapurna 1, the most dangerous of all the fourteen 8000m peaks. "I have also attempted Everest, Lhotse and Makalu without the use of supplemental oxygen. In May 2023, I reached a height of 8450m on Everest without oxygen. This is the highest altitude that any Australian woman has been without using supplemental oxygen," she said.
It is her passion to continue doing what she loves on the world's highest peaks, as that is where her spirit is free. "In doing so, I aim to show that it is possible to live your dreams and achieve your goals no matter how big or challenging they may seem," Pepper added.
According to Mikel, Pepper is so strong and determined in achieving her goals. "Pepper is an exceptional climber, boasting 23 years of guiding experience. I first ascended with her on Manaslu in September. She surpasses the average climber in skill and knowledge with her adeptness in gear usage, mastery of ascent and descent techniques, and overall technical prowess, akin to a Sherpa in her capabilities."
Many individuals venture into the mountains ill-prepared, lacking the necessary knowledge and experience, often resulting in injuries or fatalities, endangering not only themselves but also local guides, Sherpas, and fellow climbers. I firmly believe that anyone aspiring to summit should possess a basic level of experience and understanding before tackling the challenges of the Himalayas, Pepper said.
"This project, "Respect Above the Clouds," embodies my reverence for the local communities and guides, such as the Sherpas in the Himalayas, Pakistan, and Tibet, who serve as the traditional custodians of the lands I climb upon. It's a tribute to their lives intertwined with the mountains, showcasing their real stories, their tireless efforts, and the strength they exhibit. As a fellow guide, I deeply resonate with their experiences and hold immense respect for their profession."
According to Pepper, what sets this project apart is her decision to climb without supplemental oxygen and its target audience. "Amidst my menopause, I battled severe depression and a midlife crisis, doubting my return to climbing. Thankfully, I recovered, and now I aspire to be an example for women facing similar challenges, showing them that recovery is possible."
The journey to this project has been fraught with financial constraints, lack of sponsorship, and uncertainty. For three years, I climbed 6000ers, guided, and saved diligently before summiting Mt. Everest in 2011. However, adverse weather conditions forced me to rely on oxygen mid-summit, thwarting my goal of an oxygen-free ascent. The fierce winds and bone-chilling temperatures made the climb exceedingly difficult.
Experience has taught me that success of this project hinges on seizing the right summit window and favorable weather. Timing is crucial, especially on peaks like Kanchenjunga and Makalu, where weather conditions typically improve by late May. Additionally, choosing a reliable logistic partner is equally critical. I've chosen Seven Summit for their expertise, coordination with weather patterns, and experience supporting climbers like Kristin Harila and Nims in their projects, she said.
"I've always placed my trust in local outfitters for my climbs, whether in Nepal, Pakistan, or Tibet. Their dedication goes beyond mere employment-it's a matter of pride. Entrusting them with my life underscores the significance of this bond, for a wrong decision on their part could have dire consequences."
"Now, it's a now-or-never moment, a time to pursue my desires wholeheartedly. I've poured everything into this endeavor-sold my home, left my job, halted my guiding business-and dedicated six days a week to rigorous training at home. I'm fully committed."
