Nimsdai says he climbed K2 without oxygen
KATHMANDU: Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja has stated that he ascended Mt K2 without supplementary oxygen.
Taking to social media, he shared with the public that he completed K2 winter expedition without the support of supplementary oxygen. "Job Done! K2 Winter with no supplementary oxygen!" he wrote.
Stating that it was a tough call this time to make the decision whether to climb with or without supplementary oxygen, he shared the challenges that lay ahead in achieving the feat. "Due to the weather conditions and time frame, I hadn’t acclimatised adequately. I was only able to sleep as high as Camp 2 (6,600m). Ideally, climbers need to sleep or at least touch Camp 4 before heading for a summit push. Lack of acclimatisation, frost bite from the first rotation, slowing down other team members, risking everyone’s safety were the key uncertainties associated."
He further noted that on his previous evolutions, he had been carrying oxygen from 8000m and above, but that he was personally satisfied with his work efficiency up to 8000m. "It was my choice and I had my own reasons and ethos," Purja, known popularly as Nimsdai, said.
"The safety of my team is and always has been my top priority above all. I have lead 20 successful expeditions so far and all my team members have returned home the exact way that they had left -- without loosing any fingers or toes. I took a calculated risk this time and I pressed on without supplementary oxygen. My self confidence, knowing my body’s strength, capability and my experience from climbing the 14 x 8000ers enabled me to keep up with the rest of the team members and yet lead," remarked Purja, who has set the world record of scaling all 14 mountains above 8,000m in just over six months.
Last but not the least, mentioning that there are climbers who have claimed no-O2 summits but followed their trail and used the ropes and lines that they had fixed, Purja observed that it was a personal choice. "Nature and the mountains are for everyone. You make your own call!"
"K2 Winter was a beast of a challenge. I firmly believe that a feat of such caliber is never possible if you don’t have a purpose or if it is only aimed for your own self glory," said the former UK’s Special Forces member and multiple world record holder in the history of mountain climbing.