KATHMANDU, MAY 18

International mountain guide Pema Chhiring Sherpa today stood atop the world's highest peak making the most ascents of Mt Everest by an IFMGA guide.

IFMGA/UIAGM-certified guide Pema Chhiring created history by successfully scaling Everest 24 times this morning, said Lakpa Sherpa, Expedition Leader and Managing Director at 8K Expeditions.

The 42-year-old mountain guide from Gaurishankar-1 in Dolakha district has now become the only IFMGA guide to make the 24th ascent of Mt Everest, according to Sherpa. "Leading a Chinese climbers' team of 8K Expeditions, Pema reached the summit point at around 6:30 am," Sherpa said.

Nepal National Mountain Guide Association also congratulated Pema for his remarkable feat. "Among over 7,000 IFMGA-certified guides across 28 member countries, Pema Chhiring Sherpa now holds the record for the most Everest summits," said Tulsi Gurung, President of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA).

Pema first climbed Mt Everest at 17 years old in 2001. Pema received basic mountaineering training from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) in 2009 and achieved IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations) certification in 2018.

"Being a climber from the Rolwaling valley, I want to dedicate my success to all fellow mountain guides," Pema said when he headed for Everest expeditions last month.

Pemba Sherpa, Chairman at 8K Expeditions, said that Pema served as a lead guide and he has a wealth of technical expertise and leadership skill in high-altitude environments. Pema was instrumental in leading rope-fixing tasks in different mountains in the past, he informed.

Besides, Pema made double ascents of Mt Everest in a single season in 2004, 2006, 2017 and 2021. He has climbed Mt Manaslu 11 times, Cho Oyu 6 times, K2 and Shishapangma 2 times each as well as Mt Lhotse and Gasherbrum II (one time).