Climbers Patrick Perry Johnson and Erik Gomez complete 750m technical route 'Stone(d) Yeti' in a single-day push after weeks of weather delays
KATHMANDU, NOVEMBER 14
After being forced to abandon several climbing objectives in the Khumbu due to persistent heavy snowfall, two climbers have successfully completed what is believed to be the first ascent of the southeast face of Phari Lapcha (6,017m) in the Gokyo valley.
The ascent was made on 11 November, following six weeks of waiting and route scouting in the region. Climbers Patrick Perry Johnson, who led the effort, and partner Erik Gomez launched their attempt from Machhermo in a single push, starting at 1:30 a.m, according to Sonam Sherpa, Managing Director of the expedition organizer, iTrek Everest Pvt. Ltd.
According to Johnson, the pair first reached the base of the face around 8 a.m. after a day spent establishing a boot-pack half the way and a full day of rest at the local Yeti Lodge. "The route began with moderate snow and mixed steps, but the final few hundred meters were extremely mentally demanding due to unstable snow," he said. The climbers ascended the entire face solo, without using ropes or protective equipment.
The newly established route, named Stone(d) Yeti (750m, AI2+, M3, steep snow), climbs entirely on the southeast face before joining the final section (100 meters) of an existing line, The Oracle Night. After breaching a cornice on the summit ridge, the duo traversed west to reach the true summit.
The descent proved equally challenging. Johnson and Gomez rappelled into the Machhermo glacier via a west-side gully, completing 10 rappels, three before sunset and seven more in darkness, before returning to the village at 1 a.m, Sherpa added.
"This was a bold and technically challenging attempt, and we are proud to support the climbers in achieving the first ascent of this face of Phari Lapcha," Sherpa said.
Sherpa added that the climb highlights increasing interest in less-frequented alpine objectives in the Khumbu region.
