KATHMANDU, NOVEMBER 25
As dawn broke over the towering peaks overlooking Ched Chede across the Tamakoshi River, I tightened my backpack straps, inhaled the crisp mountain air, and set foot on the exhilarating yet daunting trail that wound through villages, forests, streams, landslides, and sweeping landscapes.
This marked the beginning of an unforgettable journey to Tsho-Rolpa Glacial Lake in Dolakha district. Tsho-Rolpa lies at 4,578 meters in the Rowaling range. From Kathmandu, trekkers can take a regular bus from Jadibuti or drive to Ched Chede-the gateway to this challenging yet rewarding trek.
A Gaurishankar Conservation Area permit, obtainable at Singate, is required before entering the region.
Day 1
After a night at Ched Chede-falling asleep to the river's roar and waking to birdsong-the trek began with a crossing of the thundering Tamakoshi. A steep ascent led us to Simi Gaun at 2,000 meters after two and a half hours of climbing. The fresh air, birds, and distant temple bells offered a glimpse into the lives and warmth of the mountain communities.
A brief stop for tea and selroti added comfort before we continued through lush forests and along the roaring river. Three hours later, we reached Surmuche (2,470 m) for lunch. As we climbed higher, meat dishes disappeared due to local customs. After another two-and-a-half-hour walk through forested trails and streams, we arrived at Kyalche (2,810 m), tucked deep inside the woods.
Day 2
We set off toward Dongang (2,790 m), a settlement destroyed by a flash flood two years earlier; the remnants of hotels still hinted at the devastation. This was the most treacherous part of the trek, requiring navigation through forest paths, riverbanks, and three major landslides via makeshift bridges. The flood had also damaged the route to Thandding.
One couple even recounted spending a night in a temporary workers' tent after failing to cross the trail. We too crossed the Rowaling River on a precarious bridge-one wrong step could have been fatal. After carefully traversing this dangerous stretch, we reached Thandding (3,343 m) for a well-deserved meal.
From there, a steady ascent brought us to Bedding (3,721 m), with snow-covered peaks, icy winds, and the roaring Rowaling River creating a dramatic and unforgettable backdrop.
Day 3
In the morning, I looked out my window at the snow-capped mountains and the Rowaling River as cold air sent shivers through my hair. We set off with only tea and biscuits, hiking for four hours to Na Village (3,943 m), where we rested, enjoyed dal bhat and potatoes, and allowed our bodies to acclimatize.
Day 4
Sunrise over the snowy peaks marked the start of a decisive day. After a light breakfast, we began early, heeding local warnings about falling stones after crossing the Rowaling River. The snowy trail gradually led us higher until, after four hours of trekking, we finally reached Tsho-Rolpa.
Standing before the glacial lake-stretching nearly four kilometers long yet narrow in width-brought a profound sense of relief and peace. Surrounded by towering mountains and shimmering reflections on the icy blue water, the moment felt both surreal and unforgettable.
All photos from the Tsho-Rolpa Glacial Lake trek were captured a week ago by Mausam Shah 'Nepali' for The Himalayan Times.
